Basic Guide Tables for Tailor Pattern Development
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Solution Overview
Problem
Existing tailor pattern development methods for garments, particularly for women, rely on predefined measures rather than actual body measurements, leading to defects such as insufficient or excessive fabric distribution, especially around the bust and armholes, due to fixed displacements and inadequate consideration of chest circumference.
Innovation Solution
The use of basic guide tables that calculate the depth of the 'pince' for the breast based on the difference between the bust and chest circumferences, allowing for variable adjustments to ensure accurate fabric distribution without altering the shoulder width, thereby creating tailored patterns that fit individual body measurements more accurately.
Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles
Engineering Contradiction Analysis
1Ease of manufacture
If a fixed displacement of 2 cm is used for the hip line from front to back, then the pattern development process is simplified, but the garment fit deteriorates for people with large breasts and small chests
Solution Approach 1:
The patent replaces the fixed 2 cm displacement parameter with a variable displacement value calculated based on the difference between bust circumference and chest circumference. This allows the hip line displacement to adapt to different body types, resolving the contradiction between simplified process and precise fit.
2Manufacturing precision
If the shoulder line is enlarged to accommodate breast depth, then the breast coverage is improved, but the shoulder depth increases excessively creating defects on the garment
Solution Approach 1:
The patent applies different treatment to the front and back shoulder lines. The front shoulder line is displaced backward by a calculated amount to accommodate the breast, while the back shoulder line maintains its original position or is adjusted minimally. This localized adjustment achieves proper breast coverage without excessively increasing overall shoulder depth.
3Ease of manufacture
If predefined measures are used for pattern development, then the development process is standardized, but the garment cannot accommodate individual body variations
Solution Approach 1:
The patent transforms the static predefined measures into dynamic calculations that adapt to individual body measurements. The hip line displacement is no longer a fixed 2 cm but is dynamically calculated as half the difference between bust and chest circumferences, allowing the pattern to adapt to various body types while maintaining a standardized development process.
Data Source
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AI summary
Basic guide tables are described for developing tailoring patterns that allow to make custom-made tailored clothing of all kinds, with the fit required according to taste and fashion. Their use for haute couture or pret-a-porter clothes is also described.