Belay Device Movable Karabiner Emergency Rope Blocking

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Solution Overview

Problem

Current belay devices require manual effort and precise positioning to block ropes effectively, especially when belaying multiple climbers, and may not ensure safety due to limitations in the movement of the blocking karabiner and friction distribution.

Innovation Solution

A belay device with a main body composed of parallel plates and a movable karabiner that transitions between unlocking and blocking positions, utilizing a contrast element and protruding teeth to ensure rope blocking without requiring manual effort during emergencies, and allowing for secure belaying of one or two followers by constraining to a fixed hooking point.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Device complexity

If manual belay devices are used, then the device structure is simple, but the operator must manually displace the safety rope to block it during emergencies, requiring significant manual effort and precise positioning

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvedevice structureVSAvoidmanual effort to block rope
Core Design Contradiction:
Device complexityVSEase of operation

Solution Approach 1:

The belay device automatically blocks the rope during emergencies through self-service mechanisms. The karabiner moves autonomously between unlocking and blocking positions in response to rope tension changes, eliminating the need for manual intervention. The device serves itself by using the mechanical energy from the falling climber's weight to trigger the blocking action through the karabiner's movement along the guide path.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #25Self-service

Solution Approach 2:

The karabiner is designed as a dynamic component that can move freely along a curved guide path between two extreme positions. This dynamic movement allows the karabiner to transition from the unlocking position (where the rope slides freely) to the blocking position (where the rope is secured), adapting its state based on the operational requirements without manual intervention.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #15Dynamics

2Extent of automation

If the karabiner is allowed to move freely between unlocking and blocking positions, then automatic blocking is achieved, but the device positioning and karabiner movement may not ensure sufficient safety in all configurations

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveautomatic blockingVSAvoidsafety assurance
Core Design Contradiction:
Extent of automationVSReliability

Solution Approach 1:

A curved guide path acts as an intermediary mechanism between the rope tension force and the karabiner's blocking action. The guide path ensures that the karabiner moves along a predetermined trajectory that guarantees proper engagement with the rope in the blocking position. This intermediary structure translates the chaotic motion of a falling climber into a controlled, reliable blocking action regardless of the device's initial orientation.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

Solution Approach 2:

The guide path is pre-designed to prevent incorrect karabiner positioning. By constraining the karabiner to move only along the predetermined curved path, the system preemptively eliminates unsafe configurations. The geometry of the guide path ensures that the karabiner can only achieve the blocking position when properly engaged, preventing false security or improper rope engagement before the emergency occurs.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #9Preliminary anti-action

3Ease of operation

If friction is applied on the safety rope to block it, then the rope slide is controlled, but significant manual strength is required to hold the rope in the correct position

Engineering Contradiction:
Improverope controlVSAvoidmanual strength to hold rope
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of operationVSForce

Solution Approach 1:

The device generates and applies friction automatically without requiring manual strength. When the karabiner moves to the blocking position along the curved guide path, its geometry and the rope's positioning create natural friction that controls the rope slide. The mechanical configuration of the karabiner and guide path works together to generate sufficient friction force to control the rope descent or prevent sliding, eliminating the need for the operator to exert continuous manual force.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #25Self-service

4Adaptability or versatility

If the device is designed for belaying multiple climbers, then the versatility is improved, but the device complexity and positioning requirements increase

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvebelaying multiple climbersVSAvoiddevice positioning requirements
Core Design Contradiction:
Adaptability or versatilityVSDevice complexity

Solution Approach 1:

The belay device is designed with universal functionality to handle multiple climbers through the same mechanical mechanism. The curved guide path and movable karabiner system work identically regardless of whether one or multiple ropes are being managed. The device can be configured for different belaying scenarios (single climber, multiple climbers, lead climbing, top-roping) without requiring structural modifications, achieving multi-functionality through flexible positioning and the same core blocking mechanism.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #6Universality (Multi-functionality)

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The device provides enhanced safety and ease of use by automatically blocking ropes in emergencies and reducing the need for manual strength to hold the rope, ensuring effective belaying and lowering operations independently of device positioning and karabiner movement.

Implementation Method 1

The device operates by moving a karabiner, constrained to move between two extreme positions along a curved guide path, from an unlocking position of a rope to a blocking position of the rope, or vice versa

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectFriction: Friction

Data Source

PatentEP2663370B1Safety and descender device
Publication Date: 2018.10.17 ALUDESIGN
  • EP2663370B1 patent drawingFigure 1
  • EP2663370B1 patent drawingFigure 2A~2B
  • EP2663370B1 patent drawingFigure 2C~2D

AI summary

It is described a belay, of static or dynamic type, and descender, of self-blocking type and not, device for securing one or more ropes (10) comprising a main body (1) composed of at least two or more flat plates (2, 2A, 3) constrained one to another according to planes preferably parallel, or slightly tilted, by a plurality of spacer pins (4 - 7). The rope/s is/are inserted inside the body of the device which further comprises a first karabiner (15) hooked to the main body by passing through an opening (8) in the device body. The karabiner (15) is movable in the opening between an unlocking position of the rope, that is the usual use condition, and an emergency position wherein the rope is blocked, and vice versa. The device further comprises a hole (60) passing through the device body allowing the hooking of the first karabiner (15) removed from the opening (8) or of a second karabiner (61) around which the rope/s (10) is/are passed, and further means for constraining the device body to a fixed hooking point (80), which comprise at least one through hole (70) inside which a further respective karabiner (71 ) is hooked.