Bi-Continuous Gel Cosmetic Composition Without Surfactants

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Solution Overview

Problem

Conventional cosmetic emulsified systems face challenges in producing a wide range of compositions with desired technical performance qualities, such as freshness, lightness, and coverage, while maintaining stability and sensory properties, and often require adjustments to incorporate various active agents without destabilizing the formulation.

Innovation Solution

A bi-continuous, macroscopically homogeneous cosmetic composition is achieved by combining a hydrophilic gelled aqueous phase with a lipophilic gelled oily phase using specific hydrophilic and lipophilic gelling agents, such as copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate, allowing for improved technical performance qualities and the inclusion of multiple active agents without surfactants.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Adaptability or versatility

If emulsified systems are used to combine aqueous and oily phases, then cosmetic compositions can provide freshness and comfort, but the formulation becomes difficult to functionalize and stabilize when adding active agents

Engineering Contradiction:

Improveability to combine different cosmetic ingredientsVSAvoidstability of emulsified architecture

Core Design Contradiction:

Adaptability or versatilityVSReliability

Solution Approach 1:

The patent removes surfactants from the formulation entirely, extracting the problematic component that causes instability when active agents are added. Instead of using traditional emulsified systems that require surfactants, the invention employs a gel-based system where the gelling agents alone provide the necessary structure without compromising stability or requiring formulation readjustment.

Inventive Principle:

Principle #2Taking out (Extraction)

Solution Approach 2:

The patent changes the fundamental parameter of the system from emulsified to gelled, transitioning from a liquid-liquid dispersion requiring surfactants to a semi-solid structure stabilized by gelling agents. This parameter change eliminates the need for surfactants and allows high levels of active agents to be incorporated without destabilizing the architecture.

Inventive Principle:

Principle #35Parameter changes

2Manufacturing precision

If reverse emulsions are used for complexion making up, then good coverage and homogeneous appearance are achieved, but the texture becomes greasy and tacky

Engineering Contradiction:

Improvecoverage and homogeneous appearanceVSAvoidsensory properties and lightness

Core Design Contradiction:

Manufacturing precisionVSEase of operation

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the physical state parameter from liquid emulsion to semi-solid gel, fundamentally altering the texture and sensory properties. The gelled structure provides the necessary viscosity and coverage while eliminating the greasy and tacky sensations associated with traditional reverse emulsions, achieving both good coverage and pleasant sensory properties simultaneously.

Inventive Principle:

Principle #35Parameter changes

3Ease of manufacture

If gel/gel formulations are used to dispense with surfactants, then production is simplified, but novel technical performance qualities are not achieved

Engineering Contradiction:

Improvesimplicity of productionVSAvoidtechnical performance qualities

Core Design Contradiction:

Ease of manufactureVSAdaptability or versatility

Solution Approach 1:

The patent creates a composite gel system combining hydrophilic and lipophilic gelling agents in specific proportions. This composite approach not only simplifies production by eliminating surfactants but also delivers novel technical performance qualities including improved sensory properties, enhanced stability, and the ability to incorporate high levels of diverse active agents without formulation readjustment.

Inventive Principle:

Principle #40Composite materials

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The composition provides enhanced technical performance qualities like soft-focus effect, stability, and ease of production, allowing for a wide range of cosmetic formulations with improved sensory properties and compatibility of various active agents, while eliminating the need for surfactants.

Implementation Method 1

at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent

Methodology Applied

Scientific EffectGelation: Gel

Implementation Method 2

at least one oily phase gelled with at least one hydrogen bonding polymer

Methodology Applied

Scientific EffectHydrogen bonding: Chemical Bonding

Implementation Method 3

novel systems for distributing on the skin components such as water, fatty substances and solid particles

Methodology Applied

Scientific EffectHomogeneous distribution: Diffusion

Data Source

PatentEP2958630B1Gel-type cosmetic composition

Publication Date: 2019.03.27 LOREAL SA

AI summary

The present invention is directed towards a cosmetic composition for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, comprising: -at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; and - at least one oily phase gelled with at least one hydrogen bonding polymer; the said phases forming therein a macroscopically homogeneous mixture.