Bi-continuous Gel Cosmetic Composition for Non-Greasy Coverage
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Solution Overview
Problem
Conventional cosmetic emulsified systems face challenges in producing a wide range of compositions that combine opposing technical performance qualities, such as moisturizing and mattness, without destabilizing the emulsified architecture, and often result in greasy and tacky sensations, limiting their ability to provide immediate visual results with lightness and comfort.
Innovation Solution
A bi-continuous, macroscopically homogeneous gel/gel cosmetic composition using specific hydrophilic and lipophilic gelling agents, including polymeric starches and bentonites or silica silylates, which eliminates the need for surfactants and allows for the combination of multiple performance qualities like freshness, lightness, and coverage without greasy or tacky feelings.
Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles
Engineering Contradiction Analysis
1Stability of the object's composition
If reverse emulsions are used to achieve good coverage and homogeneous appearance, then coverage and homogeneous appearance are improved, but greasy and tacky sensation increases
Solution Approach 1:
The patent changes the physical state parameter of the cosmetic composition from liquid emulsion to semi-solid gel, which fundamentally alters the texture and sensation properties while maintaining coverage and homogeneous appearance. The gel structure provides a non-greasy, non-tacky feel unlike traditional reverse emulsions.
Solution Approach 2:
The patent uses a composite gelating system combining hydrophilic gelating agents (starch, cellulose derivatives) with lipophilic gelating agents (silicones, waxes) to create a bi-continuous gel structure. This composite approach allows simultaneous achievement of coverage, homogeneous appearance, and non-greasy texture that neither phase could provide alone.
2Object-generated harmful factors
If emulsified systems are used to combine aqueous and oily phases, then freshness and comfort are improved, but the system becomes unstable when adding various cosmetic ingredients
Solution Approach 1:
The patent changes the architectural parameter from emulsified system to gel network system. This fundamental parameter change allows the incorporation of multiple cosmetic ingredients (pigments, polymers, active agents) without destabilizing the system, as the gel network provides structural stability independent of emulsification.
Solution Approach 2:
The gel base acts as a universal platform that can accommodate diverse cosmetic ingredients (aqueous and oily soluble substances, pigments, polymers, active agents) simultaneously. The bi-continuous gel structure provides multiple functions: stability, texture, and ingredient compatibility, replacing the limited emulsified architecture.
3Stability of the object's composition
If gel/gel formulations are used to dispense with surfactants, then stability is improved, but novel or improved technical performance qualities are not achieved
Solution Approach 1:
The patent employs a composite gelating system combining hydrophilic gelators (starch, cellulose derivatives) with lipophilic gelators (silicones, waxes) in specific proportions. This composite approach generates novel technical performance qualities including non-greasy texture, non-tacky feel, and improved spreadability that distinguish it from conventional gel/gel formulations.
Solution Approach 2:
The patent optimizes the concentration ratios of hydrophilic to lipophilic gelating agents to achieve specific rheological parameters and sensory properties. By adjusting these parameters, the formulation achieves novel performance qualities such as lightness, emollience, and comfort that were not present in previous gel/gel systems.
4Object-generated harmful factors
If emulsified systems are used to provide moisturizing effect, then skin hydration is improved, but mattness cannot be achieved simultaneously
Solution Approach 1:
The patent creates local quality differentiation within the gel structure by incorporating both hydrophilic components (providing hydration) and lipophilic components (providing mattness). The bi-continuous phase structure allows different regions to provide different functions: hydrophilic domains for moisture and lipophilic domains for matte finish, achieving both qualities simultaneously.
Applied Scientific Principles
This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.
Function Achieved in This Case
The composition achieves improved technical performance qualities, including enhanced soft-focus effects and stability, allowing for a wide range of ingredient combinations while maintaining a comfortable, non-greasy texture, and can be easily formulated without surfactants, providing a versatile and effective cosmetic solution.
Implementation Method 1
a macroscopically homogeneous mixture of an aqueous phase gelled with at least one polymeric gelling agent and an oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent
Implementation Method 2
a system of specific hydrophilic gelling agent(s)/lipophilic gelling agent(s) for the preparation of a cosmetic composition of the type such as a bi-continuous but on the other hand macroscopically homogeneous system
Data Source
AI summary
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, comprising: -at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one polymeric gelling agent that is natural or of natural origin;and -at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from particulate gelling agents, organopolysiloxane elastomers, semi-crystalline polymers and dextrin esters, and mixtures thereof; the said phases forming therein a macroscopically homogeneous mixture.


