Biodegradable Complexing Agent for Hair Bleaching

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Solution Overview

Problem

Conventional oxidative hair bleaching and coloring products damage hair by reacting with metallic ions present in water and hair, leading to reduced mechanical resistance, roughness, and fragility, and rely on unstable hydrogen peroxide solutions and non-ideal complexing agents like EDTA.

Innovation Solution

A cosmetic composition combining a salt of a peroxo compound, an alkalizing agent, and a nitrogen-containing carboxylic acid complexing agent with 2 or more carboxyl groups, such as trisodium glutamate diacetate, to minimize hair damage and enhance lightening efficacy while avoiding EDTA.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Object-affected harmful factors

If conventional complexing agents like EDTA are used to suppress ROS formation, then hair damage is reduced, but biodegradability is poor and affinity for magnesium and calcium is higher than desired

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvehair damageVSAvoidbiodegradability
Core Design Contradiction:
Object-affected harmful factorsVSReliability

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the chemical parameters of the complexing agent by using nitrogen-containing carboxylic acids with specific structures (2-5 carboxyl groups, pKa values between 2-5) instead of conventional EDTA. This parameter change maintains the complexing ability to suppress ROS formation while improving biodegradability and adjusting metal ion affinity characteristics.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The invention employs biodegradable complexing agents that can be naturally broken down and eliminated, replacing persistent synthetic agents like EDTA. This approach uses environmentally friendly, short-lived substances that decompose into harmless products, reducing long-term environmental accumulation while maintaining effective hair protection during the treatment process.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #27Cheap short-living objects (Disposable)

2Object-generated harmful factors

If hydrogen peroxide is used as oxidizing agent, then bleaching effect is achieved, but stability is poor at alkaline pH values

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvebleaching effectVSAvoidstability
Core Design Contradiction:
Object-generated harmful factorsVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

The patent applies preliminary action by using peroxo compounds that are stable during storage and only release active oxygen when needed during the hair treatment process. The peroxo compounds serve as stable precursors that are activated in situ, combining storage stability with effective bleaching action when applied to hair.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #10Preliminary action

Solution Approach 2:

The invention changes the chemical form of the oxidizing agent from unstable hydrogen peroxide solution to stable peroxo compound salts. This parameter change in chemical structure and physical state maintains the oxidizing capability while dramatically improving storage stability and handling safety under alkaline conditions.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

3Object-affected harmful factors

If metallic ions are present in water and hair, then ROS are formed causing hair damage, but complexing agents may not have ideal affinity selectivity

Engineering Contradiction:
ImproveROS formationVSAvoidmetal ion affinity selectivity
Core Design Contradiction:
Object-affected harmful factorsVSQuantity of substance

Solution Approach 1:

The patent applies local quality by designing complexing agents with specific molecular structures that provide different affinity characteristics for different metal ions at different locations within the molecule. The nitrogen-containing carboxylic acid structure creates localized binding sites with selective affinity, allowing preferential complexation with copper and iron ions over magnesium and calcium ions.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #3Local quality

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The composition reduces cysteine content in hair, improving the whitening effect and mechanical strength, and is more biodegradable, offering a safer and more effective alternative to conventional agents.

Implementation Method 1

complexing agents are added to cosmetic products... These metallic components can react with peroxides under alkaline conditions during oxidative hair treatment and reactive oxygen species (ROS) can be formed. These ROS react with hair proteins, which can cause hair damage. To suppress these undesirable processes, complexing agents are added to cosmetic products.

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectComplexation:

Implementation Method 2

The oxidizing agents contained in bleaching agents are able to lighten the hair fiber through the oxidative destruction of the hair's own pigment melanin.

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectOxidation: Oxidation

Implementation Method 3

The first component is an acidic oxidant preparation with hydrogen peroxide... to achieve a stronger bleaching effect, a mixture of hydrogen peroxide and peroxodisulfate salts and/or peroxomonosulfate salts is usually used.

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectDecomposition: Decomposition (biological)

Data Source

PatentUS11426340B2Reduced hair damage during blonding through use of a biodegradable complex former
Publication Date: 2022.08.30 HENKEL KGAA

AI summary

The present disclosure relates to cosmetic compositions for the oxidative treatment of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, comprising at least one salt of a peroxo compound, at least one alkalizing agent and at least one complexing agent. Furthermore, it is an object of the present disclosure to provide a multi-component unit for the oxidative lightening of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, comprising as first component the cosmetic agent as contemplated herein and as second component an agent comprising H2O2. In addition, the present disclosure relates to the use of a salt of a nitrogen-containing carboxylic acid having 2 or more carboxyl groups in a cosmetic composition.