Biodegradable Complexing Agents for Reduced Hair Damage

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Solution Overview

Problem

Conventional oxidative hair bleaching and coloring products damage hair by reducing mechanical resistance and causing roughness, while existing complexing agents like EDTA are not ideal due to poor biodegradability and uneven ion affinity.

Innovation Solution

A cosmetic composition containing a salt of a polyhydroxylated monocarboxylic acid, such as sodium glucoheptonate, as a complexing agent, combined with a peroxo compound and an alkalizing agent, which minimizes hair damage and maintains mechanical strength while achieving equivalent optical results to conventional agents.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Reliability

If conventional complexing agents like EDTA are used, then ion complexing ability is improved, but biodegradability deteriorates and affinity for copper/iron ions is reduced

Engineering Contradiction:

Improveion complexing abilityVSAvoidpoor biodegradability

Core Design Contradiction:

ReliabilityVSObject-generated harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the chemical structure parameters of complexing agents from conventional EDTA to plant-derived polyphenolic compounds (tannins, flavonoids, phenolic acids). This structural parameter change transforms the molecular composition while maintaining complexing ability through phenolic hydroxyl groups, simultaneously improving biodegradability and copper/iron ion affinity.

Inventive Principle:

Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent employs naturally occurring, biodegradable polyphenolic compounds from plant sources as temporary complexing agents during the bleaching process. These natural compounds perform their complexing function during treatment and then degrade harmlessly, replacing persistent synthetic agents like EDTA with environmentally benign alternatives.

Inventive Principle:

Principle #27Cheap short-living objects (Disposable)

2Illumination intensity

If oxidative bleaching agents are used, then hair lightening effect is improved, but mechanical resistance and hair strength deteriorate

Engineering Contradiction:

Improvehair lightening effectVSAvoidmechanical resistance

Core Design Contradiction:

Illumination intensityVSStrength

Solution Approach 1:

The patent introduces plant-derived polyphenolic compounds as intermediary substances that mediate between the oxidative bleaching agents and hair proteins. These polyphenolics form protective complexes with metal ions (copper, iron, calcium, magnesium) that would otherwise catalyze damaging reactions with hair keratin, thereby preserving mechanical strength while allowing lightening to proceed.

Inventive Principle:

Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

Solution Approach 2:

The patent applies complexing agents containing polyphenolic compounds before and during the oxidative bleaching process to pre-establish protective complexes with metal ions. This beforehand cushioning prevents direct contact between free metal ions and hair proteins, reducing oxidative damage to cysteine residues and maintaining disulfide bond integrity before the bleaching action occurs.

Inventive Principle:

Principle #11Beforehand cushioning (Prior cushioning)

3Power

If metal ions (copper, iron) are present during oxidative treatment, then catalytic activity is improved, but reactive oxygen species formation increases causing hair damage

Engineering Contradiction:

Improvecatalytic activityVSAvoidreactive oxygen species formation

Core Design Contradiction:

PowerVSObject-affected harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent converts the potentially harmful catalytic activity of metal ions toward reactive oxygen species formation into a beneficial controlled process. By using polyphenolic compounds to form stable complexes with copper and iron ions, the patent directs their catalytic activity toward controlled oxidation of melanin for lightening while preventing uncontrolled ROS generation that would damage hair proteins.

Inventive Principle:

Principle #22Blessing in disguise (Convert harm into benefit)

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The use of sodium glucoheptonate reduces cysteine content in hair, minimizing damage and maintaining the hair's optical appearance, with a color difference less than 2 compared to conventional products, and is biodegradable with improved ion affinity.

Implementation Method 1

complexing agents are added to cosmetic products... suppress these undesirable processes

Methodology Applied

Scientific EffectComplexation:

Implementation Method 2

The oxidizing agents contained in bleaching agents are able to lighten the hair fiber through the oxidative destruction of the hair's own pigment melanin

Methodology Applied

Scientific EffectOxidation: Oxidation

Implementation Method 3

aqueous hydrogen peroxide solutions are unstable at the alkaline pH values required for the application

Methodology Applied

Scientific EffectpH adjustment:

Data Source

PatentUS11583482B2Reduced hair damage during blonding through use of a biodegradable complex former

Publication Date: 2023.02.21 HENKEL KGAA

AI summary

The present disclosure relates to cosmetic compositions for the oxidative treatment of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, comprising at least one salt of a peroxo compound, at least one alkalizing agent and at least one complexing agent. Furthermore, it is an object of the present disclosure to provide a multi-component unit for the oxidative lightening of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, comprising as first component the cosmetic agent as contemplated herein and as second component an agent comprising H2O2. In addition, the present disclosure relates to the use of a salt of a polyhydroxylated monocarboxylic acid in a cosmetic composition.