Black Tea Leaf Extract Processing for Stable Cosmetic Formulations

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Solution Overview

Problem

Existing extraction methods for black tea extracts fail to effectively capture beneficial compounds like sugars, amino acids, and small RNAs, leading to instability and potential toxicity, while high catechin concentrations can cause phototoxicity and limit stability.

Innovation Solution

A novel extraction process using phytic acid and activated carbon, followed by PVPP treatment, to produce a black tea extract enriched with small RNAs, sugars, phenolic compounds, and organic acids, without DNA, and diluted with physiologically acceptable solvents to enhance stability and safety.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Quantity of substance

If conventional organic solvent extraction methods are used to obtain black tea extracts rich in phenolic compounds, then the extraction efficiency of catechins is improved, but the extract contains little or no phenolic acids, sugars, amino acids, or oligoribonucleotides and exhibits instability and potential toxicity

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvecatechin contentVSAvoidextract stability
Core Design Contradiction:
Quantity of substanceVSReliability

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the extraction parameters by using aqueous solutions instead of organic solvents, adjusting pH levels, and controlling temperature to selectively extract different compounds. This allows obtaining an extract rich in phenolic acids, sugars, amino acids, and oligoribonucleotides while maintaining catechin content at stable, non-toxic levels.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent selectively extracts specific compounds from black tea leaves by using aqueous extraction methods that target phenolic acids, sugars, amino acids, and oligoribonucleotides while controlling the extraction of catechins to prevent phototoxicity. This selective extraction resolves the contradiction by obtaining the desired compounds without the harmful effects.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #2Taking out (Extraction)

2Reliability

If high concentrations of catechins are present in the extract, then antioxidant activity is improved, but phototoxicity increases and stability decreases

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveantioxidant activityVSAvoidphototoxicity
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSObject-affected harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent controls the concentration parameters of catechins in the extract, maintaining them at levels that provide antioxidant activity without reaching phototoxic thresholds. By adjusting extraction conditions and final extract composition, the patent achieves optimal antioxidant efficacy while eliminating phototoxicity.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent converts the potential harm of high catechin concentrations (phototoxicity) into a benefit by carefully controlling extraction to achieve optimal antioxidant activity at safe concentration levels. The extraction method is designed to capture the beneficial antioxidant properties while avoiding the harmful phototoxic effects.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #22Blessing in disguise (Convert harm into benefit)

3Object-affected harmful factors

If aqueous extraction methods are used to obtain sugars and amino acids, then the extract is safer for cosmetic use, but the extraction efficiency of these polar molecules is insufficient

Engineering Contradiction:
ImprovetoxicityVSAvoidsugar and amino acid content
Core Design Contradiction:
Object-affected harmful factorsVSQuantity of substance

Solution Approach 1:

The patent optimizes aqueous extraction parameters including pH adjustment, temperature control, and extraction time to maximize the solubility and extraction efficiency of polar molecules such as sugars and amino acids. These parameter changes enable effective extraction of the desired compounds using safe aqueous solvents.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent uses aqueous solutions that serve multiple functions: they are safe for cosmetic application and simultaneously effective at extracting polar molecules like sugars and amino acids. The aqueous extraction medium performs both safety and extraction efficiency functions, resolving the contradiction between safety and extraction effectiveness.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #6Universality (Multi-functionality)

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The resulting extract provides effective skin care benefits, including protection from external aggressions, anti-aging, increased photoprotection, and improved hydration, while being stable and non-toxic.

Implementation Method 1

A novel extraction process using phytic acid and activated carbon

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectAdsorption: Adsorption

Implementation Method 2

followed by PVPP treatment

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectAdsorption: Adsorption

Data Source

PatentEP4373467B1Black tea leaf extract, compositions comprising same and cosmetic uses thereof
Publication Date: 2025.10.08 ISP INVESTMENTS LLC
  • EP4373467B1 patent drawingFigure 1

AI summary

The invention relates to a black tea (Camellia sinensis) extract enriched in particular in small RNAs, sugars, phenolic compounds, amino acids and theanine, and to a method for preparing such an extract. The invention also relates to cosmetic compositions comprising such an extract, and to the uses of cosmetic compositions comprising a black tea extract from any source, excluding black tea from Mauritius, for the care of the skin, the scalp and skin appendages, and more particularly for protecting the skin against external stresses and oxidation, combating the signs of skin ageing, increasing photoprotection, lightening the skin and improving skin hydration.