Ammonia-Free Hair Dye Emulsion with C20+ Alcohols
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Solution Overview
Problem
Existing hair dyeing and lightening processes using ammonia as a basifying agent are plagued by unpleasant odors, skin irritation, and inefficiencies in color intensity, uniformity, and stability, particularly in oil-rich emulsions, while alternative compositions lack the effectiveness of ammonia-based methods.
Innovation Solution
A process involving a two-compartment device that mixes a direct emulsion containing fatty alcohols with at least 20 carbon atoms, surfactants, and a basifying agent with an oxidizing agent, forming a composition with at least 25% fatty substances, which is applied to keratin fibers to achieve dyeing or lightening without ammonia, ensuring stability and effective coloration.
Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles
Engineering Contradiction Analysis
1Reliability
If aqueous ammonia is used as a basifying agent in oxidation dyeing processes, then the pH can be adjusted to alkaline levels to activate the oxidizing agent and swell the keratin fibre, but strong and unpleasant odour is given off and skin irritation occurs
Solution Approach 1:
The patent changes the chemical composition parameters by replacing aqueous ammonia with alternative basifying agents (ammonium salts, amine compounds, or hydroxide compounds) while maintaining the required alkaline pH level. This substitution eliminates the harmful ammonia odour and skin irritation effects while preserving the essential function of activating the oxidizing agent and swelling the keratin fibre structure.
Solution Approach 2:
The patent employs readily available alternative basifying agents that can be easily substituted for ammonia. These alternatives include ammonium salts, amine compounds, and hydroxide compounds that are commonly used in cosmetic formulations and can be disposed of or rinsed away without leaving harmful residues or odours.
2Object-generated harmful factors
If conventional basifying agents replace aqueous ammonia, then ammonia odour and skin irritation are reduced, but sufficient lightening of pigmented fibres and coloration intensity are not achieved
Solution Approach 1:
The patent optimizes the concentration and type of alternative basifying agents to achieve the necessary pH level for effective lightening and coloration. By adjusting the amount of ammonium salts, amine compounds, or hydroxide compounds used, the formulation maintains sufficient alkalinity to activate the oxidizing agent and swell the fibre, ensuring effective pigmented fibre lightening and intense coloration without ammonia-related harmful effects.
Solution Approach 2:
The patent creates a composite formulation combining alternative basifying agents with other formulation components (oxidizing agents, surfactants, conditioning agents) to achieve synergistic effects. This composite approach ensures that the alternative basifying agents work together with other ingredients to provide lightening effectiveness and coloration intensity comparable to or exceeding ammonia-based formulations.
3Ease of operation
If oil-rich emulsion is used in dyeing composition, then the mixture remains at the application point without running, but stability of the emulsion is compromised at high temperature
Solution Approach 1:
The patent adjusts the chemical composition parameters of the emulsion by incorporating specific surfactants and emulsifiers that maintain stability across a wide temperature range. By optimizing the ratio of oil-phase components to aqueous-phase components and adjusting pH levels, the formulation prevents emulsion breakdown at high temperatures while maintaining the desired property of remaining at the application point without running.
Solution Approach 2:
The patent introduces surfactants and emulsifiers as intermediary substances that mediate between the oil-phase and aqueous-phase components. These intermediaries form stable interfaces that prevent phase separation at high temperatures while maintaining the emulsion's ability to remain localized at the application point. The surfactants act as protective agents that prevent direct contact between immiscible phases.
Applied Scientific Principles
This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.
Function Achieved in This Case
The process provides efficient, odorless, and stable dyeing or lightening of keratin fibers with improved color intensity and uniformity, minimizing skin irritation and maintaining the mixture at the application point without running, while reducing ammonia usage.
Implementation Method 1
The role of this oxidizing agent is to reveal the coloration, via an oxidative condensation reaction between the oxidation dyes.
Implementation Method 2
it enables adjustment of the pH of the composition to an alkaline pH in order to allow activation of the oxidizing agent
Implementation Method 3
This agent also brings about swelling of the keratin fibre, with opening of the scales, which promotes the penetration of the oxidizing agent and of the oxidation dyes into the fibre
Data Source
AI summary
The present invention relates to a process for dyeing or lightening human keratin fibres, which consists in extemporaneously mixing at the time of use two compositions (A) and (B) and in applying the mixture to the fibres; the said mixture comprising at least 25% by weight of fatty substances relative to the total weight of the mixture of compositions (A) (B); with: composition (A) being in the form of a direct emulsion comprising: at least 30 % by weight of oil(s) (i); at least one fatty alcohol having at least 20 carbon atoms in its longest hydrocarbon chain (ii); at least one surfactant (iii); · at least one basifying agent (iv); and optionally at least one dye chosen from oxidation dyes and direct dyes, and mixtures thereof (v); composition (B) comprising at least one oxidizing agent. The invention also relates to compositions (A), the mixture of the aforementioned compositions (A) and (B), and a multi-compartment device.