Carbonate Ester Crosslinking for Keratin Fiber Shaping
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Solution Overview
Problem
Existing hair straightening methods are damaging, time-consuming, and often require harsh chemicals like formaldehyde, which is carcinogenic, and do not provide long-lasting results without breaking disulfide bonds, limiting flexibility in hairstyle changes and causing hair damage.
Innovation Solution
A method using a crosslinking composition with a carbonate ester as the active agent, having a molecular weight of 500 g/mol or less, combined with a cosmetically acceptable carrier, applied to keratin fibers at temperatures between 50° C. to 250° C. to create durable crosslinks without breaking disulfide bonds, allowing for semi-permanent styling that lasts through multiple shampoo treatments.
Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles
Engineering Contradiction Analysis
1Duration of action of stationary object
If permanent methods using high pH solutions are used to straighten hair, then the hair can be permanently straightened, but the hair is damaged and the disulfide bonds are broken
Solution Approach 1:
The invention changes the chemical parameters of the treatment by using carbonate esters with molecular weight of 500 g/mol or less instead of high pH solutions. This allows achieving durable straightening effect without breaking disulfide bonds, thus preventing hair damage while maintaining the desired hairstyle through multiple shampoo treatments.
Solution Approach 2:
The carbonate ester acts as an intermediary crosslinking agent that forms temporary crosslinks between keratin chains without disrupting the disulfide bonds. This intermediary mechanism provides the straightening effect while preserving the hair's natural bond structure, avoiding the harmful effects of traditional permanent methods.
2Duration of action of stationary object
If formaldehyde is used in Brazilian Keratin Treatments to achieve semi-permanent straight hair, then the hairstyle lasts several months, but formaldehyde is a known human carcinogen
Solution Approach 1:
The invention extracts and removes the harmful formaldehyde component from the keratin treatment formulation while retaining the desired crosslinking function. By using safe carbonate esters as alternative crosslinking agents, the patent eliminates carcinogenic effects while maintaining semi-permanent straightening results that last through multiple shampoo treatments.
Solution Approach 2:
The invention uses short-chain carbonate esters (molecular weight ≤500 g/mol) that provide temporary crosslinking for semi-permanent effects. These smaller molecules can penetrate and crosslink keratin effectively but are safer and more readily metabolized than formaldehyde, providing a safer alternative for achieving durable hairstyle without carcinogenic risks.
3Shape
If reducing chemistry with thioglycolic acid is used to achieve semi-permanent benefits, then the curly hair is transformed into straight hair, but strong sulphur smell and over-processing concerns arise
Solution Approach 1:
The invention substitutes the chemical mechanism of reducing agents (thioglycolic acid) with a crosslinking mechanism using carbonate esters. Instead of breaking disulfide bonds through reduction, the carbonate esters form crosslinks that set the straightened shape. This replacement eliminates the characteristic sulphur smell and over-processing issues associated with reducing chemistry while achieving the desired hair shape transformation.
4Duration of action of stationary object
If high temperature (232° C.) is used with formaldehyde for Brazilian Keratin Treatments, then semi-permanent straight hair is achieved, but skin irritation and hair damage increase
Solution Approach 1:
The invention changes the temperature parameter from high (232° C.) to lower temperatures compatible with safe carbonate ester crosslinking. By using carbonate esters with molecular weight of 500 g/mol or less, the treatment can be performed at reduced temperatures that minimize skin irritation and hair damage while still achieving durable crosslinks and semi-permanent straightening effects.
Applied Scientific Principles
This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.
Function Achieved in This Case
The method achieves a durable, long-lasting hairstyle that resists shampooing for at least five treatments, improves hair manageability, and reduces damage, while avoiding the use of carcinogenic chemicals.
Implementation Method 1
a crosslinking composition, wherein the crosslinking composition comprises: an active agent, wherein the active agent is a carbonate ester
Implementation Method 2
mechanically shaping the keratin fibres with an appliance at a temperature of from about 50° C. to about 250° C.
Data Source
AI summary
A method for shaping keratin fibers comprising: providing a crosslinking composition, wherein the crosslinking composition comprises: an active agent, wherein the active agent is a carbonate ester; a cosmetically acceptable carrier; and applying the crosslinking composition to keratin fibers, mechanically shaping the keratin fibers with an appliance at a temperature of from about 50° C. to about 250° C. Also a related composition, use, kit and process.