Cationic Polygalactomannan for Split Ends Repair

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Solution Overview

Problem

Existing hair care compositions fail to effectively repair split ends and smooth lifted cuticle scales while maintaining hair health, as they often result in residual powders, greasiness, or stickiness, and do not provide durable curl retention and color protection.

Innovation Solution

A cationic polygalactomannan with non-ionic hydroxyalkyl substituents and specific viscosity, ranging from 700 to 1200 mPa.s, is used in hair care compositions for split ends mending and curl retention, which provides perceivable and durable repair without adverse effects like residual powders or greasiness.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Reliability

If conventional cationic polymers with high charge density and high molecular weight are used, then split ends mending and cuticle repair are achieved, but dry hair negatives such as greasy appearance, sticky feel, loss of gloss and heavy coated feel occur

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvesplit ends mending effectivenessVSAvoidgreasy appearance and sticky feel
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSObject-generated harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent modifies the molecular weight parameter of the cationic polymer to a specific range (50,000-2,000,000 g/mol) and adjusts the charge density through controlled quaternization degree (0.1-1.0), optimizing the balance between repair effectiveness and avoiding adverse sensory effects on hair

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The invention creates a composite structure by combining cationic polygalactomannan with non-ionic hydroxyalkyl substituents, where the non-ionic groups provide steric stabilization and reduce intermolecular aggregation, thereby preventing the greasy and sticky effects while maintaining the cationic groups' ability to bind to damaged hair

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

2Reliability

If polyelectrolyte complexes are used for split ends repair, then repair effectiveness is improved, but stability is compromised when other ingredients are added to the formulation

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvesplit ends repair effectivenessVSAvoidpolyelectrolyte complex stability
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

The patent extracts the essential repair function into a single cationic polymer component that can independently bind to anionic sites on damaged hair, eliminating the need for complex polyelectrolyte complexes and their associated stability issues with formulation ingredients

Inventive Principle:
Principle #2Taking out (Extraction)

Solution Approach 2:

The invention optimizes the molecular weight and charge density parameters of the cationic polymer to achieve effective hair binding without requiring complex interactions, thereby maintaining formulation stability even when other ingredients are present

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

3Reliability

If charged compounds and polymers are added to hair care formulation, then split ends mending is enhanced, but the structure of polyelectrolyte complexes is disrupted

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvesplit ends mending capabilityVSAvoidpolyelectrolyte complex structure
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

The patent isolates the split ends mending function into a single cationic polymer that does not rely on complex interactions with other charged compounds, allowing the inclusion of multiple formulation ingredients without disrupting the repair mechanism

Inventive Principle:
Principle #2Taking out (Extraction)

Solution Approach 2:

The cationic polygalactomannan acts as an intermediary that bridges the gap between formulation stability and repair effectiveness, providing a stable platform that can interact with hair damage without being disrupted by other formulation components

Inventive Principle:
Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

Data Source

PatentEP3621696B1Hair repair composition
Publication Date: 2024.07.10 SPECIALTY OPERATIONS FRANCE
  • EP3621696B1 patent drawingFigure 1a~1b
  • EP3621696B1 patent drawingFigure 2~2b
  • EP3621696B1 patent drawingFigure 3~4

AI summary

The invention relates to a method for mending split ends of hair comprising contacting the hair with split ends with a composition comprising at least cationic polygalactomannan containing non-ionic hydroxyalkyl substituents and having a Brookfield RVT viscosity at 25°C and 20 rpm greater than 700 mPa.s, at a concentration of 1 pbw in water, for instance comprised between 700 and 1,200 mPa.s.