Cationic Surfactant Cosmetic Composition for Sensitized Hair

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Solution Overview

Problem

Current cosmetic compositions for treating sensitized hair, particularly those containing cationic surfactants, often face issues such as rinseability problems, stability issues, difficulty in distribution, and insufficient cosmetic properties, leading to undesirable effects like stiffening and residue feel, with insufficient care for damaged hair ends.

Innovation Solution

A cosmetic composition combining a cationic surfactant, a weakly oxyethylenated sorbitan ester of a saturated fatty acid, and a non-silicone liquid fatty substance in a specific ratio, which improves hair smoothness, disentanglement, and reduces discomfort reactions, providing uniform softness from roots to ends without residue feel.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Ease of operation

If cationic surfactants are used to treat sensitized hair, then softness and smoothness are improved, but rinseability problems and stability problems occur

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvesoftness and smoothnessVSAvoidrinseability and stability
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of operationVSReliability

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the molecular structure parameters of the surfactant by using cationic surfactants with specific chain lengths (C12-C22) and combining them with nonionic surfactants having controlled HLB values (3-15), which modifies the overall properties to improve both softness and rinseability simultaneously

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent creates a composite surfactant system by combining cationic surfactants (for softness and smoothness) with nonionic surfactants (for rinseability and stability), where each component contributes different properties that complement each other, resolving the contradiction between softness improvement and rinseability maintenance

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

2Ease of operation

If cationic polymers or cations are used to facilitate disentanglement and give softness, then hair softness is improved, but high affinity for hair leads to substantial deposition during repeated use causing unpleasant feel and stiffening

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvedisentanglement and softnessVSAvoidunpleasant feel and stiffening
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of operationVSObject-generated harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent modifies the charge density and molecular weight parameters of the cationic components by selecting specific cationic surfactants rather than high-molecular-weight cationic polymers, which reduces excessive deposition while maintaining sufficient softness and disentanglement benefits

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent applies different surfactant components to different aspects of hair care: cationic surfactants provide localized softness and smoothness where needed, while nonionic surfactants provide rinseability and prevent excessive deposition, creating a balanced local effect that avoids overall stiffening

Inventive Principle:
Principle #3Local quality

3Ease of operation

If current conditioning cosmetic compositions are used on very sensitized hair, then some cosmetic properties are improved, but the ends which are usually very damaged receive insufficient care

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvecosmetic propertiesVSAvoidcare for damaged ends
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of operationVSAdaptability or versatility

Solution Approach 1:

The patent applies different surfactant components with different properties to address different needs: cationic surfactants target the damaged ends for intensive conditioning and repair, while nonionic surfactants provide overall rinseability and stability, creating localized intensive care where it is most needed

Inventive Principle:
Principle #3Local quality

Solution Approach 2:

The patent creates a multi-functional surfactant system where the combination of cationic and nonionic surfactants provides multiple benefits simultaneously: conditioning, smoothness, rinseability, and targeted care for damaged ends, making the composition universally effective for sensitized hair throughout

Inventive Principle:
Principle #6Universality (Multi-functionality)

Data Source

PatentUS10071040B2Cosmetic composition comprising a cation, a liquid fatty substance and a sorbitan ester, and cosmetic treatment process
Publication Date: 2018.09.11 LOREAL SA
  • US10071040B2 patent drawing
  • US10071040B2 patent drawing
  • US10071040B2 patent drawing

AI summary

The present disclosure relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, at least one cationic surfactant, at least one oxyethylenated ester of sorbitan and at least one non-silicone liquid fatty substance, the liquid fatty substance being present in an amount of less than 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Another aspect of the present disclosure relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin materials, such as the hair.The compositions as disclosed herein have an improved conditioning effect, for instance by smoothing the tips of the hair and providing improved hair sheen.