Ceramide Glycerol Organic Acid Cosmetic Composition

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Solution Overview

Problem

Ceramides in cosmetic formulations face challenges due to their low solubility and strong tendency to recrystallize, leading to inhomogeneities and stability issues, especially at temperatures just above freezing. Additionally, microbial stabilization of ceramide-containing formulations is difficult without affecting physical stability.

Innovation Solution

A composition comprising at least one ceramide, high amounts of glycerol, and an organic acid, which enhances storage stability, tolerance to freeze-thaw cycles, and improves sensory properties, distributability, absorption, and skin feel.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Reliability

If ceramides are incorporated into cosmetic formulations, then skin barrier function is improved, but physical stability deteriorates due to low solubility and strong recrystallization tendency

Engineering Contradiction:

Improveskin barrier functionVSAvoidphysical stability

Core Design Contradiction:

ReliabilityVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

The patent introduces an intermediary substance (ceramide complexing agent) that binds to ceramides and prevents their recrystallization. This intermediary forms a stable complex with ceramides, maintaining them in solution and preventing the physical instability that would otherwise occur during storage and use.

Inventive Principle:

Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

Solution Approach 2:

The patent changes the physical-chemical parameters of ceramide incorporation by adjusting concentration levels, pH values, and temperature conditions. By optimizing these parameters, the formulation maintains ceramide solubility and prevents recrystallization while preserving skin barrier benefits.

Inventive Principle:

Principle #35Parameter changes

2Reliability

If preservatives are added to stabilize microbial growth, then microbial stability is improved, but physical stability deteriorates due to adverse effects on formulation

Engineering Contradiction:

Improvemicrobial stabilityVSAvoidphysical stability

Core Design Contradiction:

ReliabilityVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

The patent uses an intermediary approach by introducing a ceramide complexing agent that acts as a protective intermediary between preservatives and ceramides. This intermediary complex prevents preservatives from adversely affecting ceramide physical stability while still allowing effective microbial stabilization.

Inventive Principle:

Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

3Reliability

If ceramide concentration is increased to improve skin benefits, then efficacy is improved, but solubility and homogeneity deteriorate

Engineering Contradiction:

Improveskin barrier functionVSAvoidsolubility and homogeneity

Core Design Contradiction:

ReliabilityVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

The patent introduces a ceramide complexing agent as an intermediary that binds to ceramides in solution. This intermediary allows higher ceramide concentrations to be maintained without compromising solubility or homogeneity, as the complexing agent prevents ceramide aggregation and precipitation.

Inventive Principle:

Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

Solution Approach 2:

The patent creates a composite formulation system combining ceramides with complexing agents and other compatible ingredients. This composite approach enables enhanced ceramide content while maintaining formulation homogeneity through the synergistic interaction of multiple components.

Inventive Principle:

Principle #40Composite materials

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The composition achieves increased storage stability, reduced viscosity changes over time, improved sensory properties, enhanced absorption, and better microbial stability compared to traditional ceramide-containing compositions.

Implementation Method 1

the compositions according to the invention tolerate a higher number of freeze-thaw steps without significant loss of viscosity

Methodology Applied

Scientific EffectFreeze-thaw cycle stability:

Implementation Method 2

their low solubility and strong tendency to recrystallization complicate the stable incorporation into cosmetic formulations

Methodology Applied

Scientific EffectRecrystallization prevention:

Implementation Method 3

high amounts of glycerol... improved sensory properties which lead to an improved skin feel

Methodology Applied

Scientific EffectHumectant action:

Implementation Method 4

at least one organic acid comprising 2 to 12 carbon atoms or a salt thereof

Methodology Applied

Scientific EffectpH control:

Implementation Method 5

microbial stabilization of ceramide-containing formulations is challenging

Methodology Applied

Scientific EffectMicrobial stabilization:

Data Source

PatentEP4512485A1Composition comprising ceramide, glycerol and organic acid

Publication Date: 2025.02.26 EVONIK OPERATIONS GMBH

AI summary

The invention relates to a composition comprising at least one ceramide, glycerol and organic acid, a process for producing a formulation comprising at least one ceramide and the use of glycerol at high concentrations for stabilization of a ceramide-containing composition.