Ceramide NP Cosmetic Emulsion Stabilization

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Solution Overview

Problem

Cosmetic compositions containing high amounts of ceramide-NP and hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol are difficult to stabilize and solubilize, leading to instability and reduced effectiveness in providing skin benefits such as hydration, itch relief, and lipid barrier reinforcement.

Innovation Solution

A stable cosmetic composition is formulated as an oil-in-water emulsion, incorporating ceramide NP, polyglycerol-based emulsifiers, glyceryl esters, ethoxylated fatty acids, fatty alcohols, and non-triglyceride fatty compounds, with specific weight ratios to ensure solubility and stability, optionally including hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol for additional benefits.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Reliability

If high amounts of ceramide-NP are included in cosmetic compositions, then skin benefits such as hydration, itch relief, and lipid barrier reinforcement are improved, but the composition becomes difficult to stabilize and solubilize

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveskin benefitsVSAvoidcomposition stability
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

The patent introduces specific emulsifiers (polyglycerol-based emulsifiers, glyceryl esters with HLB 3-6, ethoxylated fatty acids) as intermediary substances that mediate between the hydrophobic ceramide-NP and the aqueous phase. These emulsifiers form stable emulsions that solubilize high amounts of ceramide-NP while maintaining composition stability, thus resolving the contradiction between achieving skin benefits and maintaining compositional stability.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

Solution Approach 2:

The patent changes the physical and chemical parameters of the composition by specifying precise weight ratios of emulsifiers to ceramide-NP (e.g., polyglycerol-based emulsifiers at 1.5-8 times the weight of ceramide-NP, glyceryl esters at 0.8-4 times the weight). These parameter optimizations enable stable solubilization of high ceramide-NP amounts while maintaining composition stability.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

2Reliability

If high amounts of ceramide-NP are included in cosmetic compositions, then cosmetic properties such as hydration and moisture balance are improved, but the composition becomes difficult to solubilize

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvecosmetic propertiesVSAvoidsolubility
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSEase of manufacture

Solution Approach 1:

The patent employs multiple emulsifier types as intermediaries that facilitate solubilization. Polyglycerol-based emulsifiers, glyceryl esters with HLB 3-6, and ethoxylated fatty acids act as mediators that bridge hydrophobic ceramide-NP and aqueous components, enabling high solubility levels while maintaining cosmetic properties like hydration and moisture balance.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

Solution Approach 2:

The patent creates a composite emulsion system combining multiple emulsifiers with ceramide-NP in specific ratios. This composite approach leverages the complementary properties of different emulsifiers to achieve both high solubility and effective cosmetic properties, resolving the contradiction between ease of manufacture and performance.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

3Reliability

If high amounts of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol are included in cosmetic compositions, then reduction of fine lines and wrinkles is improved, but the composition becomes difficult to stabilize

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveanti-aging benefitsVSAvoidcomposition stability
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

The patent uses the same emulsifier system (polyglycerol-based emulsifiers, glyceryl esters, ethoxylated fatty acids) as intermediaries to stabilize hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol in high concentrations. These emulsifiers prevent phase separation and maintain composition stability while allowing the anti-aging ingredient to deliver its benefits for reducing fine lines and wrinkles.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

Solution Approach 2:

The patent optimizes the weight ratios of emulsifiers relative to hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol and ceramide-NP to achieve stable formulations. By adjusting these parameters, the composition maintains stability while delivering effective anti-aging benefits.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The composition effectively stabilizes ceramide NP, maintaining its skin benefits like hydration, itch relief, and lipid barrier reinforcement, while reducing fine lines and wrinkles, and improving hyaluronic acid production, ensuring long-term skin health.

Implementation Method 1

A stable cosmetic composition is formulated as an oil-in-water emulsion, incorporating ceramide NP, polyglycerol-based emulsifiers, glyceryl esters, ethoxylated fatty acids, fatty alcohols, and non-triglyceride fatty compounds

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectEmulsion: Emulsion

Implementation Method 2

one or more first emulsifiers chosen from polyglycerol-based emulsifiers; one or more second emulsifiers chosen from glyceryl esters having an HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) of about 3 to about 6

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectSurfactant: Surfactant

Data Source

PatentUS12090224B2Cosmetic composition comprising high amounts of ceramide-np
Publication Date: 2024.09.17 LOREAL SA
  • US12090224B2 patent drawing

AI summary

The present disclosure relates to stable cosmetic compositions containing high amounts of ceramide NP. The cosmetic compositions further include high amounts of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, a plurality of emulsifiers, fatty alcohols, fatty compounds, and water. Methods for stabilizing the cosmetic compositions containing high amounts of ceramide NP and methods for treating the skin with the cosmetic compositions is also described.