Compact Powder Composition Using Block Copolymer Binder
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Solution Overview
Problem
Conventional compact makeup powders are fragile, brittle, and prone to disintegration due to high pigment or nacre content, leading to poor impact resistance and adhesion, and can become waxy over time, affecting their usability and cosmetic performance.
Innovation Solution
A compact and pressed powder composition comprising a pulverulent phase with greater than 35% weight, a non-volatile liquid fatty phase, and an amorphous hydrocarbon-based block copolymer, which allows for high pigment content without embrittling the product and maintains good uptake qualities and adhesion.
Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles
Engineering Contradiction Analysis
1Illumination intensity
If the percentage of pigments or nacres is increased to achieve desired makeup effect, then the colour effect is improved, but the composition becomes more fragile and breaking easily
Solution Approach 1:
The patent changes the chemical composition parameters by introducing a specific binder system comprising a fatty phase (15-40% wt) combined with a polymer (0.5-5% wt) and wax (5-20% wt). This parameter modification allows high pigment/nacre content (30-70% wt) while maintaining adequate cohesion and impact resistance, resolving the contradiction between colour intensity and structural strength.
Solution Approach 2:
The patent creates a composite binder system combining multiple components: fatty phase (provides flexibility), polymer (provides adhesion and cohesion), and wax (provides structure and stability). This composite approach enables the formulation to withstand high pigment loads while maintaining mechanical integrity, thus resolving the fragility issue associated with high colourant content.
2Strength
If the amount of fatty binder is increased to improve cohesion, then the composition becomes less fragile, but the composition tends to become waxy and harden during use
Solution Approach 1:
The patent precisely controls the fatty binder content within 15-40% wt range and combines it with specific polymer (0.5-5% wt) and wax (5-20% wt) concentrations. This parameter optimization ensures adequate cohesion without excessive waxiness, maintaining both structural integrity and cosmetic performance including smooth application and non-greasy feel.
Solution Approach 2:
The patent formulates a composite binder system where fatty phase, polymer, and wax work synergistically. The fatty phase provides flexibility and prevents brittleness, the polymer enhances adhesion and cohesion, and the wax contributes to structure and stability. This balanced composite prevents the composition from becoming overly waxy while maintaining adequate cohesion, thus resolving the contradiction between strength and ease of operation.
3Illumination intensity
If high content of lamellar compounds is used to achieve desired cosmetic effect, then the visual effect is improved, but the composition becomes brittle and disintegrates
Solution Approach 1:
The patent allows high lamellar compound content (30-70% wt including pigments, nacres, and fillers) while maintaining structural integrity through the optimized binder system. The specific combination of fatty phase, polymer, and wax creates a matrix that can accommodate high volumes of lamellar compounds without compromising cohesion or impact resistance, thus resolving the contradiction between visual effect and structural stability.
Solution Approach 2:
The patent creates a composite structure where the binder system (fatty phase + polymer + wax) forms a cohesive matrix that encapsulates and binds lamellar compounds. This composite approach distributes stress evenly throughout the formulation, preventing brittleness and disintegration even at high lamellar compound concentrations, thereby maintaining both visual effect and structural integrity.
4Ease of operation
If pressing conditions are reduced to avoid excessive hardness, then the composition remains softer, but the composition becomes more difficult to compact and remains fragile
Solution Approach 1:
The patent modifies the chemical composition parameters to include specific binder components in optimized ratios: fatty phase (15-40% wt), polymer (0.5-5% wt), and wax (5-20% wt). This composition modification enables the formulation to achieve adequate cohesion and impact resistance even under reduced pressing conditions (below conventional levels), maintaining both softness and structural strength simultaneously.
Solution Approach 2:
The patent formulates a composite binder system where the synergistic interaction between fatty phase, polymer, and wax components creates a cohesive matrix that provides structural strength without requiring excessive pressing force. This composite approach allows the composition to maintain softness and ease of operation while achieving adequate cohesion and impact resistance, resolving the contradiction between softness and strength under reduced pressing conditions.
Data Source
AI summary
The present invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition in the form of a compact powder, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: —a pulverulent phase in an amount of greater than or equal to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, —a liquid fatty phase comprising at least one non-volatile oil, and —at least one amorphous hydrocarbon-based block copolymer. The present invention also relates to a process for coating the face, and in particular the eyelids, with the said cosmetic composition.