Compacted Powder Cohesion via Carboxylated Nanocrystalline Cellulose

Solution Overview

Problem

Compacted powders in cosmetic compositions face challenges with cohesion and impact resistance due to incompactable fillers like pigments and nacres, leading to fragility and difficulty in compaction, and increasing binder phase or compression force compromises sensory properties or industrial feasibility.

Innovation Solution

Incorporating functionalized nanocrystalline cellulose, specifically carboxylated nanocrystalline cellulose, into the pulverulent phase to enhance compaction properties and cohesion, reducing compaction pressure requirements and improving texture and usability.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Strength

If the amount of binder phase is increased to improve cohesion and impact resistance, then the cohesion and impact resistance are improved, but the composition becomes waxy and hardens during use

Engineering Contradiction:

Improvecohesion and impact resistanceVSAvoidusability and texture

Core Design Contradiction:

StrengthVSEase of operation

Solution Approach 1:

The invention changes the chemical parameters of the filler by introducing carboxyl groups through oxidation treatment. This modifies the surface chemistry of the filler particles, enabling them to form hydrogen bonds and interact more effectively with the binder phase, thereby improving cohesion without increasing binder content

Inventive Principle:

Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The invention creates a composite system where oxidized filler particles with carboxyl groups work synergistically with the binder phase. The carboxyl-functionalized fillers act as reinforcement elements that enhance the mechanical properties of the compacted powder without requiring additional binder material

Inventive Principle:

Principle #40Composite materials

2Strength

If the compression force is increased to improve cohesion and impact resistance, then the cohesion and impact resistance are improved, but the product becomes too hard to be sampled and loses organoleptic benefits

Engineering Contradiction:

Improvecohesion and impact resistanceVSAvoidsoftness and creamy texture

Core Design Contradiction:

StrengthVSEase of operation

Solution Approach 1:

The invention changes the chemical parameters of the filler by introducing carboxyl groups through oxidation treatment. This modifies the surface chemistry of the filler particles, enabling them to form hydrogen bonds and interact more effectively with the binder phase, thereby improving cohesion without increasing binder content

Inventive Principle:

Principle #35Parameter changes

3Ease of manufacture

If incompactable fillers like pigments and nacres are present in large quantities, then the coloring and cosmetic effects are improved, but the ease of compacting deteriorates and higher pressure is needed

Engineering Contradiction:

Improveease of compactingVSAvoidcohesion of compacted powder

Core Design Contradiction:

Ease of manufactureVSReliability

Solution Approach 1:

The invention changes the chemical parameters of the filler by introducing carboxyl groups through oxidation treatment. This modifies the surface chemistry of the filler particles, enabling them to form hydrogen bonds and interact more effectively with the binder phase, thereby improving cohesion without increasing binder content

Inventive Principle:

Principle #35Parameter changes

Data Source

PatentEP3548144B1Powdery cosmetic composition comprising nanocrystalline cellulose

Publication Date: 2022.07.20 ANOMERA INC

AI summary

The present invention is directed to a powdery cosmetic composition in the form of a compacted powder comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, (i) a pulverulent phase comprising nanocrystalline cellulose, and (ii) a binder phase. The invention also concerns the use of said pulverulent phase to prepare a cosmetic composition in the form of compacted powder with satisfactory cohesive properties.