Cosmetic Composition Stabilizing Ascorbic Acid Derivatives
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Solution Overview
Problem
Conventional cosmetic compositions face challenges in stabilizing high concentrations of ascorbic acid derivatives, limiting their effectiveness in providing both short-term and long-term skin benefits such as reducing wrinkles and fine lines.
Innovation Solution
A cosmetic composition comprising an oil phase with polysilicone-11, dimethicone, dimethicone crosspolymer, and hyaluronic acid derivative, combined with a polyol phase containing ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside, propylene glycol, and hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid, along with an optional tertiary phase including anogeissus leiocarpus bark extract, which provides a stable and effective formulation for immediate and long-term anti-wrinkle effects.
Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles
Engineering Contradiction Analysis
1Quantity of substance
If high concentration of ascorbic acid derivatives is used to maximize therapeutic benefits, then long-term anti-wrinkle effects are improved, but formulation stability deteriorates
Solution Approach 1:
The patent uses ascorbyl glucoside as an intermediary substance that is more stable than ascorbic acid but can still be converted to active ascorbic acid in the skin. This mediator allows the formulation to maintain high ascorbic acid content (10-30%) while achieving stability through the stable derivative form. The ascorbyl glucoside acts as a delivery system that protects the unstable ascorbic acid until it reaches the skin.
Solution Approach 2:
The patent changes the chemical form of ascorbic acid from its unstable free acid form to stable derivative forms (ascorbyl glucoside, ascorbyl palmitate) that can be stored and formulated at high concentrations without degradation. This parameter change in molecular structure maintains the therapeutic benefits while resolving the stability issue.
2Stability of the object's composition
If low concentration of ascorbic acid derivatives is used to maintain formulation stability, then formulation stability is improved, but therapeutic effectiveness deteriorates
Solution Approach 1:
The patent incorporates ascorbyl glucoside and other stable derivatives in advance as precursors that will convert to active ascorbic acid in the skin. This preliminary action allows the product to be formulated and stored with high ascorbic acid potential while maintaining stability, then activates the full concentration upon application to the skin.
3Adaptability or versatility
If multiple beneficial components are combined to provide both short-term and long-term benefits, then product functionality is improved, but formulation complexity deteriorates
Solution Approach 1:
The patent divides the formulation into distinct functional phases: an oil phase containing polysilicone-11, dimethicone, and ethylhexyl palmitate for immediate soft focus effects; a polyol phase containing ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside, and humectants for long-term anti-wrinkle benefits; and an optional tertiary phase with botanical extracts. This segmentation allows each component to perform its specific function while maintaining overall formulation stability.
Solution Approach 2:
The patent creates a composite formulation combining silicone materials (polysilicone-11, dimethicone) with active skincare ingredients (ascorbic acid, hyaluronic acid) and humectants (glycerin, propylene glycol). This composite approach integrates immediate cosmetic benefits with long-term therapeutic effects in a single stable product.
Data Source
AI summary
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition including an oil phase, a polyol phase, and a phase. The oil phase includes polysilicone-11, mixture of dimethicone, dimethicone crosspolymer and cetyl peg/ppg-10/1 dimethicone, ethylhexyl palmitate; and hyaluronic acid derivative. The polyol phase includes ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside, propylene glycol, glycerin, and hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid. The tertiary phase includes anogeissus leiocarpus bark extract. The cosmetic composition provides immediate soft focus effect and long term anti-wrinkle effect. The present invention also relates to a method of making the cosmetic composition.