Cosmetic Composition Stability via Polyamide and Ester Blends

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Solution Overview

Problem

Cosmetic compositions, particularly lipsticks and balms, face issues with stability, exudation, and loss of transparency due to temperature variations and demixing, leading to a lack of homogeneity and aesthetic impairment.

Innovation Solution

A composition comprising 40-80% hydrogenated polyalkylene oil, 10-50% tertiary-amide-terminated polyamide (ATPA) polymer, 5-20% fatty acid ester, and 1-15% solid fatty alcohol, which improves texture, reduces exudation, and maintains transparency and stability at elevated temperatures.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Ease of manufacture

If compositions are hot-cast and then cooled, then the composition can be formed into sticks, but temperature variations cause formation of cavities and color variations due to demixing

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveformation of sticksVSAvoidhomogeneity and color uniformity
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of manufactureVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

The patent modifies the chemical composition parameters by introducing specific polymers (polyester polymers with specific glass transition temperatures, polyamide copolymers) and fatty acid esters in defined proportions. These parameter changes prevent demixing during cooling while maintaining stick formation capability, eliminating cavities and color variations without compromising manufacturability.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent creates a composite material system combining multiple components: polyester polymers, polyamide copolymers, fatty acid esters, and optional additives. This composite approach ensures compatibility between components during cooling, preventing demixing and cavity formation while maintaining the ability to form stable stick shapes.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

2Ease of manufacture

If compositions contain fatty liquid phase compounds, then the composition can be formulated, but exudation of lipophilic compounds occurs at the surface after keeping at 45°C

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveformulation capabilityVSAvoidstability at 45°C
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of manufactureVSReliability

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the chemical parameters by selecting specific fatty acid esters with particular molecular structures and introducing polymers with specific glass transition temperatures. These parameter modifications ensure that the composition remains stable at 45°C, preventing exudation of lipophilic compounds while maintaining formulation feasibility.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent introduces polyamide copolymers and polyester polymers as intermediary substances that mediate between the fatty liquid phase compounds and the polymer matrix. These intermediaries prevent direct interaction and exudation of lipophilic compounds at the surface while maintaining the compositional integrity at elevated temperatures.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

3Shape

If compositions are rigid, then the sticks maintain their shape, but the sticks break and lose translucent nature over time

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvestick shape maintenanceVSAvoiddurability and translucency retention
Core Design Contradiction:
ShapeVSDuration of action of stationary object

Solution Approach 1:

The patent modifies the mechanical parameters by adjusting the composition of polymers and fatty acid esters to achieve optimal balance between rigidity and flexibility. This parameter optimization allows sticks to maintain their shape while preventing breakage and preserving translucency over extended periods.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent develops a composite material system with specifically selected polymers and fatty acid esters that provide both structural integrity for shape maintenance and flexibility to prevent breakage. The composite structure preserves translucency over time while ensuring long-term durability of the stick form.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

Data Source

PatentUS10123962B2Cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, in particular intended for care or for makeup
Publication Date: 2018.11.13 LVMH RECH
  • US10123962B2 patent drawing

AI summary

A composition includes from 40 to 80% by weight of at least one non-volatile hydrogenated polyalkylene oil; from 10 to 50% by weight of at least one tertiary-amide-terminated polyamide (ATPA) polymer; and further at least one fatty acid ester having at least one free hydroxyl group, and preferably a hydroxystearate ester. The composition is translucid.