Curved Foil Wave Generator for Rideable Surf Breaks
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Solution Overview
Problem
Existing systems fail to efficiently replicate ocean waves in a man-made environment that are suitable for surfing, lacking in generating waves with the desired size, form, speed, and duration of the most desirable waves, such as those that plunge and have a long face for surfer maneuverability.
Innovation Solution
A wave generator system using vertically arranged foils with curvilinear cross-sectional geometry along the side walls of a pool, which are moved to generate surface gravity waves, combined with a pool design that includes a sloping bottom contour and multiple foils to create a shoaling and breaking zone, mimicking the characteristics of solitary waves for extended rideability.
Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles
Engineering Contradiction Analysis
1Loss of energy
If linearly-actuated paddles, hydraulics or pneumatics caissons are used to generate waves, then waves can be produced in a man-made environment, but the energy transfer efficiency to the wave is low and the wave characteristics do not replicate desirable ocean waves
Solution Approach 1:
Instead of pushing water forward with paddles or caissons, the invention uses a foil that moves backward through the water, generating waves through its trailing edge. This inverted approach creates more efficient wave generation with better energy transfer, producing waves that closely replicate ocean wave characteristics including proper breaking patterns and rideable face.
2Length of moving object
If wave amplitude is increased to create rideable waves, then wave height increases, but the wave becomes unstable when amplitude reaches approximately 80% of water depth
Solution Approach 1:
The foil design incorporates specific local geometric features including a curved leading edge and a sharp trailing edge positioned at a precise depth. This local quality optimization allows the wave to reach high amplitudes while maintaining stability through controlled flow separation at the trailing edge, preventing the instability that occurs when amplitude reaches 80% of water depth.
3Device complexity
If foils with simple geometry are used, then device complexity is reduced, but flow separation occurs and drag increases
Solution Approach 1:
The foil employs a curved or arcuate leading edge geometry that smoothly guides flow around the foil, preventing flow separation. This curved design, combined with a sharp trailing edge, creates optimal flow attachment and minimizes drag without requiring complex multi-element airfoil sections, thus maintaining relatively simple device complexity while eliminating harmful flow separation.
Applied Scientific Principles
This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.
Function Achieved in This Case
The system effectively generates waves that can be ridden by surfers, offering a longer rideable wave length and improved surfability by replicating the characteristics of ocean waves, including wave angle, speed, and breaker type, enhancing the surfing experience.
Implementation Method 1
Ocean surface waves are waves that propagate along the interface between water and air, the restoring force is provided by gravity, and so they are often referred to as surface gravity waves
Implementation Method 2
Each foil has a curvilinear cross-sectional geometry that defines a leading surface that is adapted to generate a wave in the water from the movement
Implementation Method 3
As the wave interacts with the bottom, it starts to 'shoal.' Typically, this occurs when the depth gets shallower than half of the wave's length, the wave length shortens and the wave amplitude increases
Implementation Method 4
When the amplitude is approximately 80% of the water depth the wave starts to 'break' and we get surf
Data Source
Figure 1~2
Figure 3(A)~4
Figure 5~6
AI summary
A surface gravity wave generator (302, 402, 500, 700, 800, 900, 1000) and wave pool (100, 300, 400) is disclosed. A wave pool is formed of opposing side walls (102, 104) and a center channel of water (106). The channel (106) includes a bottom contour (112) with a depth that runs from a deep end (202) to a shoal (206) or beach. One or more three-dimensional foils (500,600) are vertically arranged along at least one side wall (102, 104), and moved against the water in the channel. Each foil has a curvilinear cross-sectional geometry that defines a leading surface (502) that is adapted to generate a wave in water moving past the leading surface, and a trailing surface (504) configured for flow recovery to avoid separation of the flow of water in the wave and to mitigate drag from the foil from the water moving past the leading surface.