Cyclodextrin Cosmetic Stability via Acrylic Polymer Mediation
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Solution Overview
Problem
Cosmetic compositions for keratin materials face challenges in maintaining stability, particularly with cyclodextrin-based pearlescent agents that are not sufficiently stable and can cause viscosity changes, and existing thickening agents like Carbopol do not ensure long-term storage stability, especially at high temperatures, while also providing detangling and softening properties without affecting detergent and foaming properties.
Innovation Solution
Formulating cosmetic compositions with cyclodextrin, anionic surfactants, specific fatty esters, and acrylic thickening polymers, which maintain homogeneity and pearling stability, prevent phase separation, and provide a non-stringy texture, using a combination of anionic surfactants and liquid carboxylic acid esters to enhance stability and performance.
Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles
Engineering Contradiction Analysis
1Ease of manufacture
If cyclodextrin is used as a pearlescent agent, then the composition can be manufactured cold without heating above melting point, but the composition lacks sufficient storage stability and exhibits viscosity changes over time
Solution Approach 1:
The patent introduces acrylic polymers as intermediary substances that mediate between the cyclodextrin pearlescent agent and the aqueous medium. These polymers form a stabilizing network that prevents cyclodextrin crystallization and maintains composition stability during storage, while allowing cold manufacturing to proceed.
Solution Approach 2:
The patent modifies the physical-chemical parameters of the system by selecting specific acrylic polymers with appropriate molecular weights and charge characteristics. This changes the viscosity and electrostatic interactions within the composition, preventing cyclodextrin aggregation and maintaining stability without requiring thermal processing.
2Reliability
If crosslinked acrylic polymers like Carbopol are used to thicken and stabilize the composition, then storage stability improves, but the composition develops a stringy texture and excessive viscosity
Solution Approach 1:
The patent carefully selects non-crosslinked or lightly crosslinked acrylic polymers with specific molecular weight ranges and charge densities. This parameter optimization provides sufficient stabilization of cyclodextrin while maintaining a non-stringy, pleasant application texture and appropriate viscosity for consumer use.
Solution Approach 2:
The patent creates a composite system combining cyclodextrin, anionic surfactants, and acrylic polymers in specific ratios. This composite approach distributes the stabilization function across multiple components, achieving storage stability without relying on excessive crosslinking that would create stringy texture.
3Ease of operation
If insoluble conditioning agents like silicones or oils are added to facilitate detangling and impart softness, then hair conditioning properties improve, but the detergent and foaming properties of the composition are reduced
Solution Approach 1:
The patent applies the conditioning function locally at the hair surface through the cyclodextrin-acrylic polymer complex, rather than using bulk insoluble conditioning agents throughout the composition. This localized application maintains detergent and foaming properties in the bulk formulation while providing detangling and softness where needed.
Solution Approach 2:
The patent uses cyclodextrin inclusion complexes to capture and deliver conditioning agents to the hair surface, effectively copying the function of traditional insoluble conditioning agents without their detrimental effects on foaming and detergency. The cyclodextrin acts as a carrier that releases conditioning components at the point of application.
4Illumination intensity
If long-chain ester derivatives are used as pearling agents, then the composition gains iridescent appearance, but the derivatives crystallize and cause viscosity changes over time
Solution Approach 1:
The patent uses acrylic polymers as intermediary substances that interact with cyclodextrin to prevent crystallization of the pearlescent agents. This intermediary layer stabilizes the dispersed pearlescent particles, maintaining both the iridescent appearance and viscosity stability over time.
Solution Approach 2:
The patent modifies the physical parameters of the pearlescent agent environment by adjusting pH, ionic strength, and polymer concentration. These parameter changes prevent crystallization of long-chain esters while preserving their light-reflecting properties, ensuring both aesthetic appeal and compositional stability.
Applied Scientific Principles
This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.
Function Achieved in This Case
The compositions achieve long-term stability, maintain viscosity, and provide effective detangling and softening properties without affecting foaming, ensuring a stable and aesthetically pleasing product for keratin materials.
Implementation Method 1
comprising in an aqueous medium in particular physiologically acceptable and in particular cosmetically acceptable at least one anionic surfactant, at least one liquid ester of carboxylic acid having from 4 to 6 carbon atoms and alcohol having 12 to 26 carbon atoms, at least one cyclodextrin or one of its derivatives and at least one acrylic thickening polymer
Implementation Method 2
at least one acrylic thickening polymer (to be defined)... The compositions have very good homogeneity and good pearling stability, as well as a satisfactory viscosity for application to keratin materials
Implementation Method 3
at least one anionic surfactant... satisfactory viscosity for application to keratin materials. There is no phase shift (phase separation) over time of cyclodextrin and/or insoluble conditioning agents
Implementation Method 4
at least one liquid ester of carboxylic acid having from 4 to 6 carbon atoms and alcohol having 12 to 26 carbon atoms... good pearling stability
Data Source
AI summary
Cosmetic composition comprises an anionic surfactant, a liquid ester of 4-6 carbon carboxylic acid and 12-26 carbon alcohol, a cyclodextrin or its derivatives and an acrylic polymer thickener, in an aqueous medium. Independent claims are included for: (1) a process of cosmetic treatment of the keratinous matters, particularly hair, comprising applying the composition to the keratinous matter and optionally rinsing the treated matter with water; and (2) a method of improving the storage stability of the cosmetic composition.