Dehydroascorbic Acid Skin Coloration Kinetics
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Solution Overview
Problem
Current self-tanning agents like DHA take too long to develop and often produce unwanted yellow shades, failing to provide a natural skin tone on dark skin types.
Innovation Solution
A composition combining dehydroascorbic acid with amino compounds for topical application, which results in a faster, more natural-looking tan with a stronger red component, suitable for all skin types.
Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles
Engineering Contradiction Analysis
1Loss of time
If dihydroxyacetone (DHA) is used for artificial tanning, then a tanned appearance is achieved, but the coloration takes too long to develop (3-5 hours) and produces unwanted yellow shades
Solution Approach 1:
The patent changes the chemical parameters of the tanning composition by replacing DHA with dehydroascorbic acid and its derivatives, which have different reaction kinetics and color development properties. This substitution reduces development time from 3-5 hours to faster onset while avoiding yellow pigmentation through different chromophore formation mechanisms
Solution Approach 2:
The invention uses composite formulations combining dehydroascorbic acid with amino compounds (such as amino acids, peptides, or proteins) to create a synergistic system that accelerates color development and enhances natural tone production while minimizing unwanted yellow shades
2Speed
If dehydroascorbic acid and amino compounds are combined for skin coloring, then faster coloration develops with stronger red component, but the composition complexity increases
Solution Approach 1:
Dehydroascorbic acid serves multiple functions simultaneously: it acts as the primary coloring agent, provides antioxidant protection, and enables faster color development. The amino compounds serve dual roles as both color developers and skin-conditioning agents, reducing the need for separate functional ingredients
Applied Scientific Principles
This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.
Function Achieved in This Case
The solution provides a long-lasting, non-opacifying artificial coloration that develops within 30 minutes, offering a range of natural shades and is resistant to water, washing, and rubbing, improving upon DHA's limitations.
Implementation Method 1
dehydroascorbic acid or a polymer thereof in combination with an amino compound can impart, after topical application of the product to the skin, an artificial coloration
Data Source
AI summary
A regime or regimen for artificially coloring the skin entails topically applying thereon at least a) dehydroascorbic acid and/or a monomeric derivative thereof of formula (I) below and/or an isomeric form thereof of formula (I′) below and/or a polymeric derivative thereof:in which:OR1 and OR2, which may be identical or different, are each OH; a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C30 and more preferentially C1-C18 alkoxy radical; a glycoside and more preferentially glucose; an ester of a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C30 (preferably C1-C18) aliphatic carboxylic acid, which may be substituted with an aryl radical or a heterocycle; an aryl or heterocyclic carboxylic acid ester, which may be substituted with at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C30 (more preferentially C1-C18) alkyl radical; a phosphate group; a sulfate group, andb) at least one amine compound.