Detergent Composition Using Carboxylic Acid Esters for Hair Care

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Solution Overview

Problem

Conventional detergent compositions for hair, while effective in cleaning, often cause damage due to their aggressive nature, leading to issues like lipid and protein removal from the hair fiber, and the use of additional conditioners can result in stability and latherability issues, as well as non-transparent compositions.

Innovation Solution

A novel cosmetic composition combining sulfate or sulfonate anionic surfactants, carboxylic anionic surfactants, amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactants, and water-insoluble carboxylic acid esters in a cosmetically acceptable medium, which provides stable, transparent, and effective cleaning and conditioning without the need for dispersants or suspension agents.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Power

If conventional anionic surfactants are used for cleaning, then washing power is improved, but cosmetic properties deteriorate due to aggressive damage to hair fiber

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvewashing powerVSAvoidcosmetic properties
Core Design Contradiction:
PowerVSObject-affected harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent applies composite materials by combining multiple types of surfactants (anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic) in specific ratios to create a synergistic formulation. This composite surfactant system maintains the strong cleaning power of anionic surfactants while the amphoteric and zwitterionic components provide gentleness and cosmetic benefits, resolving the contradiction between washing power and cosmetic properties.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

Solution Approach 2:

The patent changes the compositional parameters by specifying precise weight ratio ranges for different surfactant types (anionic:amphoteric 95:5 to 70:30, anionic:zwitterionic 95:5 to 70:30, amphoteric:zwitterionic 95:5 to 70:30). This parameter optimization allows the formulation to achieve both effective cleaning and improved cosmetic properties by balancing the aggressive and gentle components.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

2Object-affected harmful factors

If insoluble conditioning agents are added to improve cosmetic properties, then hair conditioning is improved, but composition stability deteriorates due to dispersion difficulties

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvecosmetic propertiesVSAvoidcomposition stability
Core Design Contradiction:
Object-affected harmful factorsVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

The patent uses water-soluble carboxylic acid esters as intermediary substances that bridge the gap between the aqueous surfactant system and insoluble conditioning agents. These esters act as solubilizing intermediaries, allowing conditioning components to be incorporated into the transparent composition without compromising stability, thus resolving the contradiction between cosmetic improvement and composition stability.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

Solution Approach 2:

The patent changes the physical state parameter of conditioning agents by using water-soluble carboxylic acid esters instead of traditional insoluble conditioning agents. This parameter change from insoluble to water-soluble form allows the conditioning components to integrate seamlessly into the aqueous formulation, maintaining both cosmetic benefits and composition stability.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

3Object-affected harmful factors

If dispersants are used to maintain uniform dispersion of conditioning agents, then cosmetic properties are improved, but transparency deteriorates and viscosity increases over time

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvecosmetic propertiesVSAvoidtransparency
Core Design Contradiction:
Object-affected harmful factorsVSIllumination intensity

Solution Approach 1:

The patent employs water-soluble carboxylic acid esters as intermediary solubilizing agents that enable uniform dispersion of conditioning components without requiring traditional dispersants. These intermediaries maintain transparency by forming clear solutions rather than suspensions, and prevent viscosity increase by ensuring molecular-level dispersion rather than particulate suspension.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

Solution Approach 2:

The patent replaces complex dispersant systems with simpler water-soluble carboxylic acid esters that provide the necessary dispersion function without the unwanted side effects. This substitution uses a more suitable substance that achieves the same dispersion goal while maintaining transparency and stability over time.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #27Cheap short-living objects (Disposable)

4Object-affected harmful factors

If polysaccharides are used as gelling agents to suspend conditioning agents, then cosmetic properties are improved, but latherability deteriorates and texture becomes non-smooth

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvecosmetic propertiesVSAvoidlatherability
Core Design Contradiction:
Object-affected harmful factorsVSEase of operation

Solution Approach 1:

The patent uses water-soluble carboxylic acid esters as intermediary solubilizing agents that provide the necessary cosmetic benefits without the thickening and gelling effects of polysaccharides. These intermediaries maintain smooth texture and good latherability by forming clear, fluid solutions rather than gelled structures, thus resolving the contradiction between cosmetic improvement and ease of operation.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The composition achieves excellent cosmetic properties such as easy disentangling, smoothness, and suppleness, with good latherability and rinseability, maintaining hair health and providing a natural feel without greasiness, while being easy to implement industrially.

Implementation Method 1

at least one water-insoluble carboxylic acid ester... excellent cosmetic properties, for instance in terms of disentangling and smoothing out treated hair

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectAdsorption: Adsorption

Implementation Method 2

at least one sulfate or sulfonate anionic surfactant, at least one carboxylic anionic surfactant, at least one amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactant... good latherability

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectSurface tension reduction: Surface Tension

Data Source

PatentUS8147813B2Detergent cosmetic compositions comprising three surfactants and at least one fatty ester, and use thereof
Publication Date: 2012.04.03 LOREAL SA
  • US8147813B2 patent drawing
  • US8147813B2 patent drawing

AI summary

The present disclosure relates to novel detergent and conditioning compositions comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one sulfate or sulfonate anionic surfactant; at least one carboxylic anionic surfactant chosen from polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, polyoxyalkylenated and (C6-C24)alkylamido ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof; at least one amphoteric and/or zwitterionic surfactant; and at least one water-insoluble carboxylic acid ester chosen from: 1) esters of a C3-C30 carboxylic acid and of a C1-C30 alcohol, with at least the acid or the alcohol being branched, and 2) esters of a C7-C30 aromatic acid whose carboxylic functional group is directly attached to the aromatic ring and of a C1-C30 alcohol; wherein the at least one water-insoluble carboxylic acid ester is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and further wherein the sulfate or sulfonate anionic surfactant/carboxylic anionic surfactant weight ratio ranges from 2 to 12. The present disclosure also relates to a process for using the novel composition to cleanse and care for keratin materials, such as the hair, or the skin.