Oxidation Developer Viscosity Stabilization

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Solution Overview

Problem

Existing hair lightening and coloring preparations face challenges in maintaining viscosity and stability during application, leading to premature dripping and uneven dye distribution, particularly when using hydrogen peroxide as an oxidizing agent.

Innovation Solution

Incorporating polyethylene glycol ethers of glycerol monoesters with C12-C22 carboxylic acids, such as PEG-200 glyceryl monopalmitate, into the oxidation composition to stabilize the mixture and maintain viscosity, ensuring it remains on the hair without dripping.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Power

If hydrogen peroxide is used as an oxidizing agent in alkaline pH range, then oxidation capability is improved, but storage stability deteriorates

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveoxidation capabilityVSAvoidstorage stability
Core Design Contradiction:
PowerVSReliability

Solution Approach 1:

The hair treatment composition is divided into two separate components that are mixed immediately before use: Component A contains hydrogen peroxide (3-12% w/w) at acidic pH (2.5-5.5) for stable storage, while Component B contains alkalizing agents and dye precursors. This segmentation allows each component to be optimized independently - hydrogen peroxide remains stable in acidic conditions during storage, while the alkaline environment is only created during application when the components are mixed.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #1Segmentation

2Ease of operation

If emulsion-shaped preparations are used for hair treatment, then application ease is improved, but viscosity stability deteriorates leading to premature dripping

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveapplication easeVSAvoidviscosity stability
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of operationVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

The patent employs a composite emulsion system containing both anionic surfactants (e.g., alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates) and cationic surfactants (e.g., quaternized ammonium compounds). When Components A and B are mixed, the oppositely charged surfactants interact to form composite structures that significantly increase viscosity and prevent dripping, while maintaining the benefits of emulsion-based application.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

Solution Approach 2:

The patent utilizes pH-induced thickening by incorporating polymers that undergo conformational changes at alkaline pH. When Component A (acidic) is mixed with Component B (alkaline), the pH increase triggers polymer expansion and hydrogen bonding, causing rapid viscosity increase that prevents the mixture from dripping during application.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

3Reliability

If two-component systems are mixed immediately before use, then storage stability is improved, but homogeneous mixing becomes difficult

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvestorage stabilityVSAvoidmixing homogeneity
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSEase of manufacture

Solution Approach 1:

The patent designs the two components with complementary rheological properties - Component A is formulated with lower viscosity and Component B contains thickerening agents. This viscosity gradient facilitates spontaneous mixing and ensures homogeneous distribution when the components are combined, while both components maintain their respective stability during separate storage.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The use of polyethylene glycol ethers stabilizes the oxidation composition, maintaining viscosity and ensuring uniform dye distribution and high color intensity, with the mixture remaining on the hair for the recommended exposure time without dripping.

Implementation Method 1

Incorporating polyethylene glycol ethers of glycerol monoesters with C12-C22 carboxylic acids, such as PEG-200 glyceryl monopalmitate, into the oxidation composition to stabilize the mixture and maintain viscosity

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectViscosity stabilization:

Implementation Method 2

the oxidative color change of keratin fibers, in particular hair. Since when treating keratin fibers, in particular hair, with oxidizing agents, in particular with hydrogen peroxide, the fiber's own dye melanin is destroyed to a certain extent

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectOxidation: Oxidation

Implementation Method 3

The second component contains one or more alkalizing agents in such an amount that the application mixture of both components has a pH in the range from 8 to 11

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectpH adjustment:

Data Source

PatentEP3233035B1Thickening developer for oxidation products
Publication Date: 2019.05.01 HENKEL KGAA
  • EP3233035B1 patent drawing
  • EP3233035B1 patent drawing
  • EP3233035B1 patent drawing

AI summary

The subject matter of the present application is a composition for oxidative hair treatment, containing: 50–96 wt.%, preferably 70–93 wt.%, particularly preferably 80–90 wt.%, water; 0.5–20 wt.% hydrogen peroxide; at least one polyethylene glycol ether of a monoester of glycerol and a C12-C22- carboxylic acid comprising 110–500 ethylene oxide units in the molecule according to the formula (I), wherein the sum of the indices x + y + z represents a number in the region of 110 to 500 and R represents an alkyl group with 11 to 21 carbon atoms, which may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, wherein all indications of quantity relate to the weight of the oxidation composition. A composition of this type is extremely suitable as an oxidation agent (developer) for oxidative hair lighteners and/or hair dyes, the alkaline composition (A) of which is present in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and contains at least one alkalizing agent and, optionally, at least one oxidation dye precursor, and has a pH value in the region of 8 to 11.5, measured at 20 °C, in particular with regard to the application properties of the mixture, such as viscosity stability and drop behaviour and/or retention on the hair.