DHA Skin Toning Agent with Water-Wax-Oil Matrix

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Solution Overview

Problem

Existing skin toning agents with DHA face challenges in forming emulsifier-free formulations with water, wax, and oil, which are stable and provide immediate tinting and freshness effects without causing skin irritation.

Innovation Solution

A skin toning agent comprising DHA, water, wax, and oil, with a wax:oil ratio of 0.8:1 to 2.3, and no emulsifiers, where DHA is present as free water-soluble DHA, achieving a subtle skin tone and excellent storage stability by maintaining the balance of active ingredients and their ratios.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Reliability

If emulsifiers are used to create stable W/O or O/W emulsions for skin toning, then storage stability is improved, but skin irritation risks increase and the formulation becomes less desirable for sensitive skin

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvestorage stabilityVSAvoidskin irritation
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSObject-affected harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent removes emulsifiers from the formulation entirely, extracting the harmful component while maintaining the core functionality of combining water and oil phases through a different mechanism (wax-based structure)

Inventive Principle:
Principle #2Taking out (Extraction)

Solution Approach 2:

The patent changes the formulation parameters by using specific wax-to-oil ratios (0.8:1 to 2.3) and controlled water content (8-35%) to achieve stability without emulsifiers, transforming the system from an emulsion-based approach to a wax-anhydride-based approach

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

2Stability of the object's composition

If higher proportions of wax and oil are used to achieve paste-like consistency, then product structure and stability are improved, but emulsifiers are required or storage stability deteriorates

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveformulation stabilityVSAvoidformulation complexity
Core Design Contradiction:
Stability of the object's compositionVSDevice complexity

Solution Approach 1:

The patent optimizes the wax-to-oil ratio parameter (0.8:1 to 2.3) and water content (8-35%) to achieve the desired paste-like consistency and stability without requiring emulsifiers, simplifying the overall formulation

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

3Ease of operation

If water content is increased to at least 5-10% to enable freshness effect, then consumer appeal is improved, but formulation stability becomes more difficult to achieve without emulsifiers

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvefreshness effectVSAvoidformulation stability
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of operationVSReliability

Solution Approach 1:

The patent incorporates water at levels of 8-35% into the anhydrous wax-oil matrix, creating a stable formulation that delivers freshness effect without compromising structural integrity or requiring emulsifiers

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

4Ease of manufacture

If DHA content is increased to achieve stronger skin color, then tinting effect is improved, but the risk of skin irritation increases and subtle tone is lost

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvetinting effectVSAvoidskin irritation
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of manufactureVSObject-affected harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent optimizes the DHA concentration parameter (1-3%) to achieve effective skin toning while maintaining a subtle, natural appearance and minimizing the risk of skin irritation

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Data Source

PatentEP2087879B1Skin toning agent with DHA on a water-wax-oil basis
Publication Date: 2011.04.13 COTY PRESTIGE LANCASTER GROUP

AI summary

Cosmetic skin coloring agent comprises: dihydroxyacetone (1-3 wt.%); water (8-35 wt.%); wax (5-30 wt.%); oil (3-35 wt.%); pigment (1-7 wt.%); and further cosmetic auxiliary materials and/or carrier materials with the exception of emulsifiers for the emulsification of water- and oil-phase, where the ratio of wax and oil is 0.8-1:1.5-3 and the skin coloring agent forms a solid mass at room temperature. An independent claim is included for the preparation of cosmetic skin coloring agent, comprising producing a homogeneous water phase comprising dihydroxyacetone and water-soluble cosmetic auxiliary materials at 50-60[deg] C under stirring, producing homogeneous oil phase comprising oil, wax and pigment at 75-88[deg] C, cooling the obtained mixture at 18-25[deg] C, heating the cooled mass at 68-70[deg] C, molding the heated mixture into molds and cooling the filled molds for a period of 6-10 minutes at room temperature.