N,N-Dicarboxymethylglutamic Acid Hair Dye Composition

Resolve Bottlenecks,
Find Innovative Solutions
Generate Solutions

Solution Overview

Problem

Current cosmetic compositions for dyeing and lightening keratin fibers, such as hair, are not environmentally friendly, lack persistence against external agents, and provide poor color performance in terms of build-up, strength, and chromaticity, while also compromising hair cosmetic properties.

Innovation Solution

A composition comprising N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, 1,3-propanediol, nonionic surfactants, and alkaline agents, which provides good dyeing and lightening performance, persistence, and cosmetic benefits, including reduced ammonia odors and improved stability.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Reliability

If conventional cosmetic compositions are used for dyeing and lightening keratin fibres, then dyeing performance and color build-up are achieved, but environmental friendliness deteriorates and persistence against external agents deteriorates

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvepersistence against external agentsVSAvoidenvironmental friendliness
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSObject-affected harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the chemical composition parameters by using N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid (a biodegradable chelating agent) instead of conventional harsh chemicals, and 1,3-propanediol (a natural solvent) instead of synthetic solvents. These parameter changes maintain dyeing effectiveness while improving environmental compatibility and persistence.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The invention creates a composite cosmetic composition combining multiple natural and biodegradable ingredients including N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, 1,3-propanediol, nonionic surfactants, and natural dyes. This composite approach achieves both environmental friendliness and durable color fastness through synergistic interactions between components.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

2Object-affected harmful factors

If natural dye compositions are used for dyeing keratin fibres, then environmental friendliness is improved, but color build-up deteriorates and chromaticity deteriorates

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveenvironmental friendlinessVSAvoidcolor build-up and chromaticity
Core Design Contradiction:
Object-affected harmful factorsVSManufacturing precision

Solution Approach 1:

The patent optimizes concentration parameters of natural dyes and combining them with N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid at specific ratios (0.1-10% w/w), which enhances color build-up and chromaticity while maintaining environmental friendliness. The controlled pH parameter (8-10) also improves dye fixation and color intensity.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The invention creates a composite system where natural dyes are combined with N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid and 1,3-propanediol. This composite formulation enhances the inherent properties of natural dyes, achieving sufficient color build-up and chromaticity that pure natural dyes cannot achieve alone, while preserving biodegradability and environmental compatibility.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

3Object-affected harmful factors

If natural dye compositions are used for dyeing keratin fibres, then environmental friendliness is improved, but persistence against washing and rubbing deteriorates

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveenvironmental friendlinessVSAvoidpersistence against washing and rubbing
Core Design Contradiction:
Object-affected harmful factorsVSDuration of action of stationary object

Solution Approach 1:

The patent adjusts the pH parameter to alkaline range (8-10) using alkaline agents, which opens the hair cuticle and improves dye penetration and fixation. This parameter change significantly enhances color persistence against washing and rubbing while maintaining the natural composition's environmental friendliness.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid acts as a mediating agent that facilitates strong bonding between natural dyes and keratin fibres. This intermediary substance forms stable complexes with metal ions and binds to hair proteins, anchoring the natural dyes firmly to prevent fading during washing and rubbing, thereby improving persistence without compromising environmental compatibility.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

4Manufacturing precision

If conventional dye compositions are used for permanent dyeing, then color strength is improved, but ammonia odors increase and cosmetic properties of hair deteriorate

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvecolor strengthVSAvoidammonia odors
Core Design Contradiction:
Manufacturing precisionVSObject-generated harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent extracts and eliminates ammonia and other harmful volatile substances from the dye composition. By using 1,3-propanediol as a solvent and N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid as a chelating agent instead of ammonia, the invention achieves permanent dyeing with strong color fastness while completely removing the unpleasant ammonia odor and reducing damage to hair cosmetic properties.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #2Taking out (Extraction)

Solution Approach 2:

The invention changes the chemical parameters by using non-alkaline or mildly alkaline alternatives to concentrated ammonia. The pH is controlled in a moderate range (8-10) using gentle alkaline agents, which reduces volatile odor generation while maintaining sufficient alkalinity for cuticle opening and dye penetration, thereby achieving color strength without harmful ammonia odors.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

5Manufacturing precision

If conventional dye compositions are used for permanent dyeing, then color strength is improved, but cosmetic properties of hair deteriorate

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvecolor strengthVSAvoidcosmetic properties of hair
Core Design Contradiction:
Manufacturing precisionVSReliability

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the chemical composition parameters by using biodegradable and hair-friendly ingredients. N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid provides gentle chelation without harsh effects, 1,3-propanediol offers mild solvation, and nonionic surfactants provide gentle cleansing. These parameter changes enable strong color fixation while preserving hair moisture, elasticity, and overall cosmetic quality.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The invention creates a composite formulation that combines multiple hair-beneficial ingredients: N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid (protective chelating agent), 1,3-propanediol (humectant and solvent), nonionic surfactants (gentle cleansers), and natural dyes. This composite system achieves strong color fastness while simultaneously nourishing and protecting hair, improving cosmetic properties rather than deteriorating them.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The composition achieves effective color build-up, strength, and chromaticity, while maintaining hair integrity and comfort, with a creamy texture and easy application, and shows stability over time.

Implementation Method 1

one or more compounds chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, salts thereof, solvates thereof, solvates of the salts thereof

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectComplexation: Chemical Bonding

Implementation Method 2

1,3-propanediol in a content of greater than or equal to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectHygroscopy: Absorption (physical)

Implementation Method 3

one or more nonionic surfactants chosen from (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, esters of C8-C30 fatty acids and of (poly)oxyalkylenated glycerol ethers

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectSurface tension reduction: Surfactant

Implementation Method 4

one or more alkaline agents

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectAlkaline hydrolysis: Hydrolysis

Implementation Method 5

oxidation dye precursors for permanent dyeing... Under the action of an oxidizing agent, these precursors form one or more coloured substances in the hair

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectOxidation: Oxidation

Data Source

PatentUS20240285495A1Composition comprising n,n-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, 1,3-propanediol, at least one nonionic surfactant, at least one alkaline agent and/or at least one dye
Publication Date: 2024.08.29 LOREAL SA

AI summary

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for treating keratin fibres, notably human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, and/or salts thereof, solvates thereof and/or solvates of the salts thereof, 1,3-propanediol, at least one nonionic-surfactant chosen from (C6-C24 alkyl)polyglycosides, esters of C8-C30 fatty acids and of (poly)oxyalkylenated glycerol ethers, in particular of oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers, and mixtures thereof, at least one alkaline agent and/or at least one dye. The present invention also relates to a process for dyeing and/or lightening keratin fibres, such as the hair, in which a composition comprising N,N-dicarboxymethylglutamic acid, and/or salts thereof, solvates thereof and/or solvates of the salts thereof, 1,3-propanediol, at least one nonionic surfactant, at least one alkaline agent and/or at least one dye is applied to said fibres. The present invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention for dyeing and/or lightening keratin fibres such as the hair.