Double-Cloth Hem Joining for Low-Bulk Lined Garments
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Solution Overview
Problem
Existing methods for creating a perimeter hem in multilayer fabric structures, particularly those involving double cloth and lining, result in excessive thickness, loss of double cloth essence, and aesthetically unpleasing stitching, especially when joining lightweight fabrics like linings.
Innovation Solution
A method involving a double cloth with a two-dimensional distribution of joining threads, where one layer is detached along an edge, cut to create a projecting strip, and the further fabric is joined using a linear seam along this strip, reducing thickness and maintaining the double cloth's essence for aesthetically pleasing results.
Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles
Engineering Contradiction Analysis
1Ease of manufacture
If the known method of folding up both the double cloth and lining towards the inside and joining them together is used, then the perimeter hem can be made in a multilayer fabric structure, but the thickness along the perimeter hem becomes excessively large
Solution Approach 1:
The invention separates the double cloth into two distinct layers (first layer and second layer) that can be treated differently during the hemming process. This segmentation allows the first layer to be folded while the second layer remains extended, creating a staggered layer arrangement that reduces overall thickness at the hem edge.
Solution Approach 2:
The invention reorganizes the layer arrangement from a stacked configuration (where all layers are folded together) to a staggered configuration along the edge. By having the second layer extend beyond the first layer and joining the lining to the extended portion, the structure utilizes spatial distribution along the edge dimension rather than stacking in the thickness dimension.
2Ease of manufacture
If the known method of folding up both layers is used, then the perimeter hem can be constructed, but the essence of the double cloth is lost and the structure resembles a lining with normal heavy fabric rather than high-quality double cloth
Solution Approach 1:
By segmenting the double cloth into two separately treatable layers, the invention preserves the distinctive double cloth structure in the main body while allowing selective folding only of the first layer at the edge. This maintains the visual and structural essence of double cloth in the visible areas.
Solution Approach 2:
The invention applies different treatment to different parts of the double cloth: the first layer is folded at the edge for hem construction, while the second layer remains extended to preserve the double cloth appearance. This local differentiation maintains aesthetic quality in visible areas while achieving the hem function at the edge.
3Ease of manufacture
If hand-sewn stitches are used to join the folded up lining and double cloth, then the perimeter hem can be made, but the stitches become visible and aesthetically unpleasing results are obtained
Solution Approach 1:
The invention relocates the joining operation from the folded edge area (where stitches would be visible) to the extended second layer area (where stitches can be concealed). By joining the lining to the second layer in this extended zone, the stitching is hidden beneath the folded first layer, achieving aesthetic results.
4Ease of manufacture
If the known method is used to join heavy double cloth, then the hem can be made, but the method is not suitable for joining lightweight fabrics like lining to double cloth
Solution Approach 1:
By separating the double cloth into two independently treatable layers, the invention creates flexibility in how different fabric types are handled. The heavier second layer can provide structural support and conceal stitching, while the lighter first layer can be folded smoothly, making the method adaptable to combinations of different fabric weights.
Solution Approach 2:
The invention applies different handling approaches to different layers based on their weight and function: the heavier second layer is kept extended for structural support and stitch concealment, while the lighter first layer is folded for a clean edge appearance. This localized treatment approach can be adapted to various fabric weight combinations.
Data Source
AI summary
A method including:providing a portion of double cloth including a first layer joined to a second layer, the layers being joined by a two-dimensional distribution of joining threads obtained by weaving;detaching the first layer from the second layer along an edge zone of the double cloth, to define on the first layer a band in which the first layer is separated from the second layer;cutting the band of the first layer, so that the second layer exhibits a projecting strip which projects with respect to a free edge of the first layer;arranging a further portion of fabric in contact with the second layer;joining the further portion of fabric to the second layer by a joining line arranged along the projecting strip;after the step of joining, turning the further portion of fabric, to move the further portion of fabric away from the second layer.