Double-Cloth Hem Joining for Thin, Hidden Lining Seams

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Solution Overview

Problem

Existing methods for creating a perimeter hem in multilayer fabric structures, particularly those involving double cloth and lining, result in increased thickness, loss of double cloth essence, and aesthetically unpleasing stitching, making it difficult to join double cloth to other fabrics like linings without visible seams.

Innovation Solution

A method involving a double cloth with a two-dimensional distribution of joining threads, where the first layer is detached along an edge zone, cut to create a projecting strip, and the further fabric is joined using a seam line along this strip, reducing thickness and allowing for clean, linear junctions without folding edges inward.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Ease of manufacture

If the known method of folding up both double cloth and lining toward the inside and joining edges is used, then the perimeter hem can be made in multilayer fabric structure, but the thickness of the junction area increases significantly

Engineering Contradiction:

Improveperimeter hem constructionVSAvoidthickness of junction area

Core Design Contradiction:

Ease of manufactureVSVolume of moving object

Solution Approach 1:

The double cloth is segmented into two separate layers (first layer and second layer) along the edge zone. This segmentation allows the first layer to be folded inward while the second layer remains extended, creating a junction area with reduced thickness compared to folding both layers.

Inventive Principle:

Principle #1Segmentation

Solution Approach 2:

Different treatment is applied to different parts of the double cloth: the first layer is folded inward while the second layer is kept extended. This local differentiation in folding behavior optimizes the thickness distribution in the junction area, making it thinner than conventional methods.

Inventive Principle:

Principle #3Local quality

2Ease of manufacture

If the known method of folding up both double cloth and lining is used, then the perimeter hem can be constructed, but the essence of the double cloth is lost

Engineering Contradiction:

Improveperimeter hem constructionVSAvoiddouble cloth structure integrity

Core Design Contradiction:

Ease of manufactureVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

The double cloth is selectively segmented only in the edge zone where the hem is constructed, while the rest of the double cloth maintains its intact two-layer structure. This preserves the essential characteristics of double cloth in the main body while allowing hem construction.

Inventive Principle:

Principle #1Segmentation

Solution Approach 2:

The segmentation and folding treatment is applied locally only to the edge zone, while the main body of the double cloth retains its original two-layer structure with joining threads, preserving its essential qualities and appearance.

Inventive Principle:

Principle #3Local quality

3Ease of manufacture

If hand-sewn stitches are made between folded up lining and folded up double cloth, then the perimeter hem can be joined, but the stitches become visible and aesthetically unpleasing

Engineering Contradiction:

Improvejoining operationVSAvoidvisibility of stitches

Core Design Contradiction:

Ease of manufactureVSIllumination intensity

Solution Approach 1:

Instead of folding both layers inward and sewing on the inside (conventional method), the invention inverts the approach by keeping the second layer extended and folded outward, allowing machine stitching on the extended portion which is then concealed or less visible in the finished hem.

Inventive Principle:

Principle #13The other way round (Inversion)

Solution Approach 2:

The invention replaces hand-sewing with machine stitching by providing a machine-stitchable configuration with the extended second layer. This substitution enables more precise, consistent, and less visible stitching while maintaining aesthetic quality.

Inventive Principle:

Principle #28Mechanics substitution (Replace mechanical system)

Data Source

PatentEP2604133B1A method for joining two fabric portions, a multilayer structure and an article of clothing

Publication Date: 2014.05.14 MAX MARA

Figure 1~3
Figure 4~6

AI summary

A method comprises the steps of: - providing a portion of double cloth (1) comprising a first layer (2) joined to a second layer (3), the first layer (2) being joined to the second layer (3) by means of a two-dimensional distribution of joining threads (4) obtained by weaving; - detaching the first layer (2) from the second layer (3) along an edge zone (5) of the double cloth (1), so as to define on the first layer (2) a band (20) in which the first layer (2) is separated from the second layer (3); - cutting said band (20) of the first layer (2), so that the second layer (3) exhibits a projecting strip (9) which projects with respect to a free edge (17) of the first layer (2); - arranging a further portion of fabric (10) in contact with the second layer (3); - joining the further portion of fabric (10) to the second layer (3) by means of a joining line (16) arranged along the projecting strip (9); - after the step of joining, turning the further portion of fabric (10), such as to move the further portion of fabric (10) away from the second layer (3).