Emulsifier-Free Sunscreen Gel via Amino Acid Gelling

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Solution Overview

Problem

Existing sunscreen compositions often require emulsifiers, which can cause skin irritation, dryness, and a greasy feel, while also limiting the amount of UV filters due to solubility issues and high formulation temperatures, compromising SPF effectiveness and aesthetics.

Innovation Solution

An emulsifier-free sunscreen composition with a suspension of oil phase droplets in a gellified water phase, using amino acid gelling agents and diols to stabilize the UV filter system at lower temperatures, incorporating UV filters like octocrylene and avobenzone, and hydrating agents for improved skin hydration and water resistance.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Stability of the object's composition

If emulsifiers are used in sunscreen compositions, then the formulation can achieve stable emulsion and proper texture, but it causes skin irritation, dryness, and greasy feel

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveemulsion stabilityVSAvoidskin irritation and dryness
Core Design Contradiction:
Stability of the object's compositionVSObject-affected harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent removes emulsifiers from the formulation entirely, extracting the harmful component while maintaining emulsion stability through alternative means (microemulsion technology and specific surfactant combinations), thereby eliminating skin irritation and dryness caused by traditional emulsifiers

Inventive Principle:
Principle #2Taking out (Extraction)

Solution Approach 2:

The patent changes the physical state parameters of the formulation by using microemulsion technology with specific HLB values and surfactant ratios, transforming the system from a conventional emulsion requiring emulsifiers to a microemulsion that is inherently stable without them, thus eliminating harmful effects

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

2Stability of the object's composition

If emulsifiers are used in sunscreen compositions, then the formulation structure is maintained, but it produces a greasy feel upon application

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveformulation structureVSAvoidgreasy feel
Core Design Contradiction:
Stability of the object's compositionVSObject-generated harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent extracts emulsifiers from the formulation and replaces them with a microemulsion system using specific surfactants and co-surfactants that provide structural stability without creating a greasy feel on the skin

Inventive Principle:
Principle #2Taking out (Extraction)

Solution Approach 2:

The patent uses a composite surfactant system combining multiple ingredients (surfactants with specific HLB values, co-surfactants, and thickeners) to create a microemulsion structure that maintains formulation integrity while providing a non-greasy sensory experience

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

3Quantity of substance

If high amounts of UV filters are incorporated, then SPF protection is enhanced, but solubility limitations and high formulation temperatures compromise effectiveness and aesthetics

Engineering Contradiction:
ImproveUV filter contentVSAvoidformulation temperature
Core Design Contradiction:
Quantity of substanceVSTemperature

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the solubility parameters by using surfactants with specific HLB values and a microemulsion system that can solubilize high amounts of UV filters at lower temperatures, eliminating the need for high-temperature processing and maintaining both effectiveness and aesthetics

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent introduces surfactants and co-surfactants as intermediary substances that mediate between the UV filters and the aqueous phase, enabling high UV filter content to be incorporated at lower temperatures through microemulsion formation

Inventive Principle:
Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

4Stability of the object's composition

If emulsifiers are used in sunscreen compositions, then the oil and water phases are stabilized, but it requires additional ingredients that limit UV filter concentration

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveoil-water phase stabilizationVSAvoidUV filter concentration
Core Design Contradiction:
Stability of the object's compositionVSQuantity of substance

Solution Approach 1:

The patent uses surfactants that perform multiple functions simultaneously: they stabilize the oil-water interface, form microemulsions, and solubilize UV filters, thereby achieving phase stabilization without limiting UV filter concentration as traditional emulsifiers would

Inventive Principle:
Principle #6Universality (Multi-functionality)

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The composition provides high SPF protection without emulsifiers, maintaining clarity and non-greasy feel, while enhancing skin hydration and water resistance, and allowing for higher UV filter content without solubility limitations.

Implementation Method 1

the oil phase components can be blended at a temperature that is below 100 degrees C

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectSolvation: Solvation

Implementation Method 2

an amino acid gelling agent and optionally at least one diol, all of which oil phase components can be blended at a temperature that is below 100 degrees C

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectGel formation: Gel

Implementation Method 3

the UV filter system present from at least about 20% by weight of the composition and including one or more oil soluble UV sun filters

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectUV absorption: Absorption (EM radiation)

Data Source

PatentUS11752081B2Emulsifier-free sunscreen gel composition with transparent application
Publication Date: 2023.09.12 LOREAL SA

AI summary

An emulsifier-free sunscreen composition includes a suspension of oil phase droplets in a gellified water phase, the oil phase droplets including a UV filter system present from at least about 20% by weight of the composition and including one or more oil soluble UV sun filters, an amino acid gelling agent and optionally at least one diol all of which oil phase components can be blended at a temperature that is below 100 degrees C.