Enzymatic Synthesis of Retinyl Esters for Stable Anti-Aging Cosmetics

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Solution Overview

Problem

Current methods for producing retinyl esters, such as chemical preparation, often involve harsh reagents and high temperatures, which can cause degradation and are incompatible with components having reactive functionalities, leading to increased costs, time, and waste, while biocatalytic syntheses lack versatility in ester formation with reactive groups.

Innovation Solution

A novel enzymatic process for producing retinyl esters by reacting retinol with 3-hydroxyalkanoic acid or its esters in the presence of enzymes like lipase, using solvents like diethyl ether or toluene, to form stable and less irritating retinyl esters that can hydrolyze to provide retinol and additional energy sources like β-hydroxybutyrate, facilitating their use in cosmetic compositions.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Ease of manufacture

If chemical preparation methods are used to produce retinyl esters, then ester formation can be achieved, but harsh reagents and high temperatures cause degradation and are incompatible with reactive functionalities

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveease of manufactureVSAvoiddegradation
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of manufactureVSObject-affected harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the reaction parameters from harsh chemical conditions (high temperature, strong reagents) to mild enzymatic conditions (lower temperature, biocatalysts), thereby achieving ester formation without causing degradation of the retinol or other sensitive components

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent substitutes chemical catalysis with enzymatic catalysis, replacing harsh chemical reagents and high-temperature processing with biological catalysts that operate under milder conditions, thus avoiding degradation while maintaining manufacturing capability

Inventive Principle:
Principle #28Mechanics substitution (Replace mechanical system)

2Adaptability or versatility

If chemical preparation methods are used with protected alcohols, then reactive functionalities can be handled, but protection-deprotection adds cost, time, and waste

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvecompatibility with reactive functionalitiesVSAvoidsynthesis time
Core Design Contradiction:
Adaptability or versatilityVSLoss of time

Solution Approach 1:

The patent extracts the need for protection-deprotection steps by using enzymatic catalysis that is inherently selective and compatible with reactive functionalities, allowing direct esterification without requiring temporary protection of alcohol groups

Inventive Principle:
Principle #2Taking out (Extraction)

Solution Approach 2:

The enzymatic catalyst provides universal compatibility with various reactive functionalities, enabling the reaction to proceed without requiring specific protection strategies for different functional groups, thus simplifying the overall synthesis process

Inventive Principle:
Principle #6Universality (Multi-functionality)

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

This process enhances the stability and biological benefits of retinyl esters, allowing for their use in cosmetic anti-aging compositions by reducing irritation and providing energy, while minimizing environmental impact and production costs.

Implementation Method 1

reacting retinol, in the presence of an enzyme, with an acid or short chain ester of a hydroxyalkanoate

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectEnzymatic catalysis: Enzyme

Implementation Method 2

These esters are expected to be readily hydrolyzed in the skin to afford retinol for metabolism

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectHydrolysis: Hydrolysis

Data Source

PatentEP2678314B1Retinyl esters of 3-hydroxybutyric acid and oligomers thereof
Publication Date: 2016.01.06 EASTMAN CHEM CO
  • EP2678314B1 patent drawing
  • EP2678314B1 patent drawing
  • EP2678314B1 patent drawing

AI summary

Retinyl hydroxyesters and retinyl oligo-hydroxyesters were prepared using a chemoenzymatic process from retinol and short chain esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids or short chain esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids. The presence of the hydroxyl group on the acid can result in a mixture of esters from various oligomers of the hydroxycarboxylic acid. The retinyl ester products are readily enzymatically hydrolyzed in vitro, which indicates that application to the skin should result in release of the anti-aging ingredient retinol (without the inherent instability and irritation) along with the acid, which, if chosen appropriately, should also have desirable biological effects. This combination should be effective as an anti-aging skin care ingredient.