Ester Mixtures for Cosmetic Solubilization

Resolve Bottlenecks,
Find Innovative Solutions
Generate Solutions

Solution Overview

Problem

Existing cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations face challenges in achieving sensory properties comparable to silicon oils while minimizing environmental impact and skin irritation, particularly in solubilizing crystalline UV filters and reducing the whitening effect.

Innovation Solution

Development of ester mixtures with specific alkyl moieties, comprising 5 to 60 weight-% of esters according to the general formula R1—C(═O)—O—R2, where R1 is an alkyl moiety with 7 to 9 carbon atoms and R2 is an alkyl moiety with 8 to 10 carbon atoms, enhancing solubilizing capacity and spreading value, and improving compatibility with UV filters and pigments.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Ease of operation

If volatile silicone oils are used to provide high spreading and non-greasy skin feel, then sensory properties are improved, but environmental compatibility deteriorates due to bioaccumulation concerns

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvesensory propertiesVSAvoidenvironmental compatibility
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of operationVSObject-affected harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the chemical parameters by using esters with specific carbon chain lengths (C8-C10 fatty acids with C12-C18 fatty alcohols) to replace silicones, maintaining sensory properties while improving environmental compatibility through biodegradability

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent employs biodegradable ester components that break down naturally in the environment, replacing persistent silicone oils with substances that have shorter environmental lifecycles and lower bioaccumulation potential

Inventive Principle:
Principle #27Cheap short-living objects (Disposable)

2Object-affected harmful factors

If ester oils are used as alternatives to silicones, then environmental compatibility is improved, but sensory performance deteriorates

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveenvironmental compatibilityVSAvoidsensory performance
Core Design Contradiction:
Object-affected harmful factorsVSEase of operation

Solution Approach 1:

The patent creates composite ester mixtures combining specific ratios of different ester components (C8-C10 fatty acids with C12-C18 fatty alcohols) to achieve synergistic effects that replicate silicone-like sensory properties while maintaining environmental benefits

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

Solution Approach 2:

The patent optimizes molecular parameters by selecting specific carbon chain lengths and saturation levels in the ester components to tune viscosity, spreadability, and skin feel properties to match silicone performance

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

3Device complexity

If conventional ester mixtures are used, then formulation simplicity is maintained, but solubilizing capacity for crystalline UV filters deteriorates

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveformulation simplicityVSAvoidsolubilizing capacity
Core Design Contradiction:
Device complexityVSAdaptability or versatility

Solution Approach 1:

The patent adjusts the carbon chain length parameters and saturation levels of the ester components to optimize solubilizing capacity for crystalline UV filters while maintaining formulation simplicity through a defined compositional range

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Data Source

PatentUS8921430B2Ester mixtures and compositions comprising such ester mixtures
Publication Date: 2014.12.30 COGNIS IP MANAGEMENT GMBH
  • US8921430B2 patent drawing

AI summary

The invention is directed to a mixture of esters according to the general formula (I), R1—C(═O)—O—R2, wherein R1 is an alkyl moiety with 7 to 9 carbon atoms and wherein R2 is a an alkyl moiety with 8 to 10 carbon atoms, wherein the mixture comprises 5 to 60 weight-% of ester of the general formula (I), wherein R1 is an alkyl moiety with 9 carbon atoms, based on the total amount of esters according to formula (I) and/or wherein the mixture comprises 5 to 60 weight-% of ester of the general formula (I), wherein R2 is an alkyl moiety with 10 carbon atoms, based on the total amount of esters according to formula (I). The invention is further directed to cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical compositions comprising such esters and processes for the production of such esters.