Nonionic Estolide Compounds for Hair Conditioning

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Solution Overview

Problem

There is a need for efficient, cost-effective, and flexible hair care compounds that can improve dry and wet combability, smoothness, and alignment of hair, similar to silicone-based conditioning agents, but using sustainable raw materials and offering long-term stability in formulations.

Innovation Solution

Nonionic polymeric fatty acid-based estolide compounds and aqueous compositions are developed for hair care, which can be synthesized in a straightforward and cost-efficient manner using sustainable raw materials, providing improved dry and wet combability, smoothness, and alignment of hair.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Ease of operation

If silicone-based conditioning agents are used to improve hair combability and smoothness, then hair conditioning performance is enhanced, but formulation stability over long term is compromised

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvehair combabilityVSAvoidformulation stability
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of operationVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the chemical parameters by using fatty acid compounds with specific chain lengths (C12-C24) and saturation levels, along with controlled esterification degrees, to achieve both conditioning performance and formulation stability. The nonionic character and specific molecular weight range (500-5000 Da) are critical parameters that resolve the contradiction between combability enhancement and long-term stability.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The invention applies local quality by specifying particular structural features of the fatty acid compounds - such as the presence of hydroxyl groups at specific positions, chain length distributions, and esterification patterns - that provide conditioning benefits at the hair surface while maintaining overall formulation stability. The cuticle-targeted conditioning action is achieved through specific molecular properties rather than bulk formulation changes.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #3Local quality

2Shape

If advanced silicone derivatives are used to achieve smooth and silky hair feel, then hair smoothness is improved, but manufacturing cost increases

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvehair smoothnessVSAvoidmanufacturing cost
Core Design Contradiction:
ShapeVSEase of manufacture

Solution Approach 1:

The patent employs conventional fatty acid compounds and standard esterification processes that are readily available and cost-effective compared to specialized silicone derivatives. The use of naturally derived fatty acids from common oils and fats, combined with straightforward chemical modification, provides an economical alternative that achieves comparable smoothness results without the high manufacturing costs of advanced silicone technology.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #27Cheap short-living objects (Disposable)

Solution Approach 2:

The invention achieves smoothness through controlled parameter changes in fatty acid structure - specifically chain length (C12-C24), degree of esterification (1-3 ester groups), and presence of functional groups like hydroxyls. These parameter adjustments allow tuning of conditioning performance to match or exceed silicone derivatives while using cheaper, more readily available raw materials and simpler synthesis routes.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

3Ease of operation

If polymeric fatty acid compounds are used to improve wet and dry combability, then hair alignment is enhanced, but synthesis complexity increases

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvewet and dry combabilityVSAvoidsynthesis complexity
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of operationVSDevice complexity

Solution Approach 1:

The patent employs a segmented synthesis approach where fatty acid compounds are built stepwise through controlled esterification reactions. The polymeric structure is constructed by linking fatty acid units through ester bonds in a controlled manner, allowing incremental buildup of molecular weight and complexity. This segmented approach simplifies the overall synthesis by breaking down the polymeric formation into manageable sequential steps rather than attempting to create the full polymer structure in one reaction.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #1Segmentation

Solution Approach 2:

The invention controls synthesis complexity through careful parameter management - limiting the degree of polymerization to achieve moderate molecular weights (500-5000 Da), controlling the number of ester groups (1-3 per molecule), and regulating the proportion of different fatty acid chain lengths. These parameter constraints keep the synthesis process manageable while still achieving sufficient combability improvement.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Data Source

PatentUS20230102191A1Nonionic polymeric fatty acid compounds for the treatment of fibrous amino acid-based substrates, especially hair
Publication Date: 2023.03.30 MOMENTIVE-PERFORMANCE MATERIALS GMBH
  • US20230102191A1 patent drawing
  • US20230102191A1 patent drawing
  • US20230102191A1 patent drawing

AI summary

The present invention is directed at hair care formulations comprising at least one non-ionic compound containing at least one terminal estolide moiety, at non-ionic compounds containing at least one terminal estolide moiety, the use of non-ionic compounds containing at least one terminal estolide moiety in cosmetic formulations for skin and/or hair care, the use of non-ionic compounds containing at least one terminal estolide moiety for the treatment of fibers, and at compositions containing at least one such compound for the treatment of hair.