Etherified Ascorbic Acid Derivatives for Long-Term Cosmetic Stability
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Solution Overview
Problem
Ascorbic acid derivatives and salts used in cosmetics suffer from instability, discoloration, odor generation, and short-lived activity, necessitating improvements for enhanced stability and physiological effects.
Innovation Solution
Development of a novel ascorbic acid derivative or salt represented by formula (I), characterized by specific etherified hydroxyl groups at the 2- and/or 3-positions, which enhances stability, reduces discoloration and odor, and maintains high physiological activity, including melanin inhibition and hyaluronic acid production promotion.
Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles
Engineering Contradiction Analysis
1Reliability
If ascorbic acid or conventional ascorbic acid derivatives are used in cosmetics, then whitening and moisturizing effects are achieved, but stability over time deteriorates with discoloration, odor generation, and activity decrease
Solution Approach 1:
The patent applies parameter changes by modifying the chemical structure of ascorbic acid derivatives through specific etherification at the 2-position and/or 3-position with controlled molecular weight and hydroxyl group content. This structural parameter modification resolves the contradiction by maintaining the essential antioxidant and whitening properties of ascorbic acid while significantly improving stability over time and eliminating discoloration and odor generation issues that plague conventional derivatives.
Solution Approach 2:
The patent employs composite material principles by creating ascorbic acid derivatives with combined functional groups - the core ascorbic acid structure provides antioxidant activity, while the attached etherified hydroxyl groups contribute to stability and moisturizing effects. This composite molecular structure achieves both the desired cosmetic effects and improved stability without the harmful discoloration and odor problems of conventional derivatives.
2Reliability
If ascorbic acid derivatives are used to improve stability, then stability over time is improved, but physiological activity duration becomes short-lived
Solution Approach 1:
The patent resolves this contradiction through precise parameter control in the etherification process - specifically controlling the molecular weight of the etherified group within 50-500 Daltons and maintaining hydroxyl group content at 1-20 mmol/g. These parameter optimizations ensure that the derivative remains stable during storage while maintaining sufficient physiological activity duration in the body, as the moderate molecular weight prevents excessive steric hindrance that would reduce bioavailability.
3Reliability
If conventional ascorbic acid derivatives are proposed for whitening cosmetics, then whitening effect is achieved, but discoloration and odor problems occur over time
Solution Approach 1:
The patent converts the potential harm of oxidation (which causes discoloration in conventional derivatives) into a benefit by designing a molecular structure where the etherified hydroxyl groups at specific positions protect the ascorbic acid core from oxidation. The controlled molecular weight and hydroxyl content create a stable composite structure that maintains whitening efficacy while preventing the discoloration and odor problems that occur with conventional derivatives over time.
Data Source
AI summary
As a novel ascorbic acid derivative or a salt thereof that has the superior inherent functions of ascorbic acid such as a whitening action, a collagen production promoting action, and a moisture retaining action, while also being stable even when stored for a long period, demonstrating little change in color, change in smell, reduction in activity, and similar, the present invention provides an ascorbic acid derivative or a salt thereof wherein one hydrogen among the hydroxyl groups in the second position and the third position of ascorbic acid has been substituted with R-O-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-, R-O-CH2-CH(CH2OH)-, R-CH(CH2OH)-, R-CH(OH)-CH2- (R being H, an alkyl group, an alkenyl group, or a phenyl group), HO-C(CH3)2-CH2-, or HO-CH2-C(CH3)2-. The present invention also provides a cosmetic including said ascorbic acid derivative or a salt thereof.