Anhydrous Eyebrow Composition for Matte Wear and Smooth Application

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Solution Overview

Problem

Existing cosmetic compositions for eyebrows lack a natural matte finish, good wear resistance, and comfortable texture, often compromising smooth application due to excessive powder addition, and stability at elevated temperatures.

Innovation Solution

An anhydrous liquid composition comprising silicone resin, silicone gum, volatile hydrocarbon oil, hydrophobic inorganic filler, and lipophilic gelling agent, with specific weight percentages to achieve a matte finish, reduced stickiness, and smooth spreading, while maintaining stability and wear resistance.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Shape

If powder ingredients are added to achieve matte finish and reduce stickiness, then the matte finish and non-sticky film are improved, but the smoothness during application deteriorates

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvematte finishVSAvoidsmoothness during application
Core Design Contradiction:
ShapeVSEase of operation

Solution Approach 1:

The invention changes the chemical composition parameters by introducing specific silicone resin (MQ resin), silicone gum, and lipophilic gelling agents in controlled amounts (filler 15-25%, gelling agent 3-10%) to achieve matte finish without relying on excessive powder ingredients that would compromise smoothness

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The invention uses a composite system combining silicone resin, silicone gum, volatile hydrocarbon oil, filler, and lipophilic gelling agent to create a synergistic formulation that provides both matte finish and smooth application, resolving the contradiction between these two properties

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

2Shape

If the composition provides good wear resistance and matte finish, then the cosmetic effects are improved, but the stability at elevated temperature may deteriorate

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvematte finishVSAvoidstability at elevated temperature
Core Design Contradiction:
ShapeVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

The invention optimizes the chemical composition parameters by selecting anhydrous ingredients with appropriate molecular weights and structures (MQ resin, silicone gum, specific filler types) that maintain both matte finish properties and thermal stability up to 45°C

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The invention uses volatile hydrocarbon oil as a carrier that evaporates after application, leaving behind a stable, non-sticky film that maintains matte finish and wear resistance without compromising temperature stability

Inventive Principle:
Principle #27Cheap short-living objects (Disposable)

3Shape

If the composition is designed for natural matte finish, then the cosmetic effect is improved, but the gloss required for lip compositions is reduced

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvenatural matte finishVSAvoidapplicability to different body parts
Core Design Contradiction:
ShapeVSAdaptability or versatility

Solution Approach 1:

The invention tailors the composition specifically for eyebrow application by controlling the balance between matte finish ingredients (filler, gelling agent) and spreading agents (silicone resin, volatile oil), creating a formulation optimized for the specific needs of eyebrow keratin fibers rather than universal applicability

Inventive Principle:
Principle #3Local quality

4Ease of operation

If the composition provides reduced stickiness and smooth spreading, then the comfortable texture is improved, but the wear resistance may deteriorate

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvesmooth spreadingVSAvoidwear resistance
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of operationVSStrength

Solution Approach 1:

The invention optimizes the molecular weight and structure parameters of silicone resin (1-30%, preferably 5-25%) and silicone gum (1-25%, preferably 3-20%) to achieve the right balance between smooth spreading during application and durable wear resistance after drying

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The invention creates a composite film structure where silicone resin and silicone gum form a flexible, adherent base layer that provides both smoothness and wear resistance, while filler and gelling agent provide matte finish without compromising the film's mechanical properties

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The composition provides a stable, long-lasting matte finish with reduced stickiness and smooth application, offering excellent cosmetic effects and resistance to sebum and water, ensuring a natural makeup look even under adverse conditions.

Implementation Method 1

c) at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectEvaporation: Evaporation

Implementation Method 2

d) at least one filler comprising d-1) at least one hydrophobic inorganic filler

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectAbsorption: Absorption (physical)

Implementation Method 3

e) at least one lipophilic gelling agent selected from organomodified clays

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectGel formation: Gel

Data Source

PatentEP4499027B1Composition suitable for eyebrows
Publication Date: 2026.02.25 LOREAL SA
  • EP4499027B1 patent drawing
  • EP4499027B1 patent drawing
  • EP4499027B1 patent drawing

AI summary

The present invention relates to an anhydrous liquid composition for keratin substances, preferably keratin fibers, and more preferably the eyebrows, comprising: (a) at least one silicone resin; (b) at least one silicone gum; (c) at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil; (d) at least one filler; and (e) at least one lipophilic gelling agent selected from organomodified clays, wherein the (d) filler comprises (d-1) at least one hydrophobic inorganic filler preferably selected from hydrophobically-modified metal oxides, and more preferably selected from hydrophobic silicas, and wherein the total amount of the (d) filler and the (e) lipophilic gelling agent is more than 18.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, the amount of the (e) lipophilic gelling agent is more than 2.5% by weight and less than 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, the amount of the (d) filler is less than 21% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the amount of the (d-1) hydrophobic inorganic filler is less than 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the present invention is stable and can provide excellent cosmetic effects such as a matte finish, good wear resistance, and a comfortable texture such as reduced stickiness of the makeup and smooth spreading during application.