Fatty Acid Ester Mattifying Composition for Skin
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Solution Overview
Problem
Current cosmetic compositions for mattifying oily and shiny skin often lead to discomfort due to dryness and roughness, and fail to provide a long-lasting matte finish, as they rely on fillers like perlite or fumed silica that cause fluffiness and an unclean skin perception.
Innovation Solution
A composition comprising fatty alcohols with at least 20 carbon atoms, behenyl behenate, and specific thickeners such as acrylic or methacrylic acid polymers, which work together to create a durable matte effect without discomfort, maintaining skin appearance even in the presence of sweat and sebum.
Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles
Engineering Contradiction Analysis
1Reliability
If fillers like perlite or fumed silica are used for mattifying the skin, then the mattifying effect is improved, but the comfort and skin feel deteriorate due to fluffiness, dryness, and roughness
Solution Approach 1:
The patent changes the chemical composition parameters by using fatty acid esters with specific carbon chain lengths (C16-C30) instead of traditional mineral fillers. This parameter change transforms the mattifying mechanism from physical light scattering to chemical interaction with sebum, eliminating the harmful fluffiness and roughness while maintaining the mattifying effect.
Solution Approach 2:
The patent replaces the mechanical physical filler system (perlite, fumed silica) with a chemical system based on fatty acid esters. This substitution eliminates the need for solid particulate fillers that cause fluffiness, instead using molecules that interact chemically with sebum to provide mattifying properties without the harmful mechanical effects.
2Speed
If traditional mattifying compositions are used, then immediate mattifying effect is achieved, but the duration of the matte finish deteriorates as the effect is not long-lasting
Solution Approach 1:
The patent achieves continuous useful action by formulating a composition that provides sustained sebum management over time. The fatty acid esters continuously interact with sebum production and existing sebum layers, maintaining the matte effect throughout the day rather than providing only immediate but short-lived results.
Solution Approach 2:
The patent uses a composite formulation combining multiple fatty acid esters with different carbon chain lengths (C16-C30). This composite approach creates synergistic effects where different ester molecules work together to provide both immediate mattifying action and long-lasting durability, addressing both speed and duration requirements.
3Duration of action of stationary object
If sebum-absorbing fillers are used to prolong matte finish, then the duration of mattifying effect is improved, but the skin comfort and cleanliness perception deteriorate
Solution Approach 1:
The patent replaces mechanical sebum-absorbing fillers with chemical sebum-managing fatty acid esters. This substitution eliminates the accumulation of visible filler particles that create an unclean skin perception, while the ester molecules continuously manage sebum at the molecular level to maintain matte finish without compromising cleanliness appearance.
Applied Scientific Principles
This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.
Function Achieved in This Case
The composition effectively reduces skin shininess and maintains a matte finish over time, providing a comfortable and aesthetically pleasing solution for oily and combination skin types, especially in hot and humid climates.
Implementation Method 1
an effective means of rapidly reducing unsightly areas of shininess consists in using 'soft focus' fillers. The use of sebum- and perspiration-absorbing fillers is also a means of prolonging the matte finish over time.
Implementation Method 2
the inventors have demonstrated that fatty acid esters having at least 16 carbon atoms have good properties for mattifying oily and/or shiny skin; indeed, it has been observed that the shininess of the skin is reduced after applying fatty acid ester according to the invention to oily and/or shiny skin.
Data Source
AI summary
The present invention relates to a cosmetic and/or dermatological composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: a)one or more alcohols comprising at least 20 carbon atoms, b) one or more fatty acid esters, said ester comprising at least 24 carbon atoms, and being selected among A) those corresponding to the formula (I) below: R-COO-R' (I) in which: R and R', which may be identical or different, denote a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 14 to 24 carbon atoms, and B) di-or triesters of glycerol and of C12-C30 fatty acids; and c) at least one or more thickeners which are not xanthan gum. Another subject of the invention is a process for mattifying the skin and/or reducing the shininess thereof. Another subject of the invention is the use of said fatty acid ester as agent for mattifying keratin materials such as the skin.