Fatty Acid Polyester Oil Structurants for Personal Care

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Solution Overview

Problem

Existing oil structurants for personal care products, such as waxes, silicas, and hydrophobically modified clays, face challenges like undesirable skin feel, reduced gloss, high processing temperatures, and high costs, while hydrophobically modified clays and aluminum magnesium hydroxide stearate do not spontaneously emulsify with water, and silicas have low bulk density.

Innovation Solution

Development of fatty acid polyester oil structurants obtained by reacting C4 to C10 dicarboxylic acids with polyols like glycerol or sorbitol and C16 to C30 monocarboxylic fatty acids, which provide effective thickening and gelling properties without the drawbacks of existing materials.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Productivity

If waxes are used as oil structurants, then the oil phase can be thickened, but the skin feel becomes undesirable and gloss is reduced

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvethickening efficiencyVSAvoidskin feel and gloss
Core Design Contradiction:
ProductivityVSObject-affected harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The invention changes the chemical parameters of the structurant by using polyester compounds with specific molecular weights, hydroxyl values, and acid values. These parameter changes allow effective thickening while maintaining desirable skin feel and gloss, unlike traditional waxes

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The polyester structurants are composite materials formed by reacting polyols with dicarboxylic acids and monocarboxylic fatty acids. This composite structure combines the thickening capability of waxes with the skin-friendly properties of ester compounds

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

2Productivity

If hydrophobically modified clays or aluminium magnesium hydroxide stearate are used, then the oil phase can be structured, but spontaneous emulsification with water does not occur

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvestructuring capabilityVSAvoidemulsification capability
Core Design Contradiction:
ProductivityVSAdaptability or versatility

Solution Approach 1:

The polyester structurants have local hydrophilic regions (hydroxyl groups and ester linkages) within an otherwise hydrophobic fatty acid chain structure. This local quality distribution enables both structuring of the oil phase and spontaneous emulsification with water

Inventive Principle:
Principle #3Local quality

Solution Approach 2:

By controlling the hydroxyl value and molecular structure of the polyester, the invention achieves a balance between oil-phase structuring and water compatibility, enabling spontaneous emulsification that clay-based structurants cannot achieve

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

3Productivity

If trihydroxystearin or high molecular weight polymers are used for structuring, then the oil phase can be thickened, but high processing temperatures up to 90°C are required

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvethickening efficiencyVSAvoidprocessing temperature
Core Design Contradiction:
ProductivityVSTemperature

Solution Approach 1:

The invention optimizes the molecular weight and hydroxyl value parameters of the polyester structurants to achieve effective thickening at lower temperatures. The specific parameter range (hydroxyl value 10-100 mg KOH/g) enables processing below 90°C while maintaining thickening efficiency

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

4Productivity

If silicas are used as structurants, then the oil phase can be thickened, but the bulk density is low

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvethickening efficiencyVSAvoidbulk density
Core Design Contradiction:
ProductivityVSWeight of stationary object

Solution Approach 1:

The invention uses polyester compounds with controlled molecular weights and chain lengths that provide effective thickening while maintaining higher bulk density compared to silica particles. The liquid or semi-solid nature of the polyester structurants contributes to better density characteristics

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

5Productivity

If dextrin palmitates are used as structurants, then the oil phase can be thickened, but the cost is very high

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvethickening efficiencyVSAvoidcost
Core Design Contradiction:
ProductivityVSQuantity of substance

Solution Approach 1:

The polyester structurants use readily available, inexpensive raw materials (polyols, dicarboxylic acids, and common fatty acids) to produce an effective structurant at lower cost than dextrin palmitates. The straightforward esterification process also reduces manufacturing costs

Inventive Principle:
Principle #27Cheap short-living objects (Disposable)

Solution Approach 2:

By adjusting the ratios of polyol to dicarboxylic acid to monocarboxylic acid, the invention can produce structurants with different performance levels at varying costs, allowing optimization between performance and price

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The fatty acid polyester oil structurants effectively thicken and gel oil phases, enhancing the stability and application of personal care products, including cosmetics, while offering improved skin feel and reduced oiliness, and can be used in a wide range of oil polarities without high processing temperatures.

Implementation Method 1

ester products obtainable by reaction of polyols, C4 to C10 dicarboxylic acids and long chain monocarboxylic fatty acids

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectEsterification: Chemical Bonding

Data Source

PatentUS9023329B2Structurants for oil phases
Publication Date: 2015.05.05 CRODA INT PLC

AI summary

Polyester oil structurants are obtainable by the reaction of a C4 to C10 Q dicarboxylic acid, a polyol and a C16 to C30, particularly a C20 to C24, monocarboxylic fatty acid. The structurants can be used to provide structure, particularly thickening and/or gelling, in oils of a wide range of polarity. Thickened oils can find application in a range of personal care and other applications.