Gel-Gel UV Filter Composition for Stable, Lightweight Photoprotection
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Solution Overview
Problem
Existing photoprotective compositions face challenges in achieving high UV protection without the drawbacks of greasiness and stickiness, while maintaining stability and providing a pleasant sensory experience.
Innovation Solution
A cosmetic composition comprising a macroscopically homogeneous mixture of a gelled aqueous phase and a gelled oily phase, using non-starchy hydrophilic and lipophilic gelling agents, with UV filters distributed in one or both phases, forming a gel-gel architecture that maintains photoprotection and stability while offering freshness and lightness.
Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles
Engineering Contradiction Analysis
1Reliability
If high-content UV filters are integrated into emulsified compositions to achieve high UV protection, then photoprotection efficiency is improved, but formulation stability deteriorates and reformulation is required
Solution Approach 1:
The composition is divided into distinct aqueous and oily phases, each optimized for specific UV filters. Water-soluble UV filters are incorporated into the aqueous phase while fat-soluble UV filters are incorporated into the oily phase, allowing high concentrations of multiple UV filters to be integrated without compromising emulsion stability
Solution Approach 2:
The invention uses a composite emulsion system combining multiple phases with different properties. The aqueous phase contains hydrophilic gelling agents and water-soluble UV filters, while the oily phase contains lipophilic gelling agents and fat-soluble UV filters, creating a stable multi-phase system that maintains high photoprotection efficiency
2Reliability
If high levels of UV filters are used to achieve high protection factor, then UV filtering efficiency is improved, but sensory comfort deteriorates due to oiliness and stickiness
Solution Approach 1:
The composition segments UV filters into water-soluble and fat-soluble phases, allowing the use of high protection factor filters without requiring excessive total oil content. The aqueous phase provides a refreshing sensation while the oily phase delivers necessary UV filtration, balancing protection with sensory comfort
Solution Approach 2:
The invention changes the physical parameters of the composition by incorporating gelling agents that modify the rheological properties. The aqueous phase uses hydrophilic gelling agents while the oily phase uses lipophilic gelling agents, creating a non-greasy, non-sticky texture even with high UV filter content
3Reliability
If high levels of UV filters are used to achieve high protection factor, then UV filtering efficiency is improved, but visual appearance deteriorates with shiny appearance on skin
Solution Approach 1:
The gelling agents modify the surface properties and light scattering characteristics of the composition. The gel structure creates a matte finish that eliminates the shiny appearance associated with traditional high-protection UV formulations, while maintaining high UV filtration efficiency
4Reliability
If emulsified compositions are formulated with varied textures and high filter rates, then photoprotection performance is improved, but formulation complexity increases and development difficulty increases
Solution Approach 1:
The formulation is segmented into two independent phases with clear functional assignments. The aqueous phase handles water-soluble UV filters and provides refreshing sensation, while the oily phase handles fat-soluble UV filters and provides photoprotection. This segmentation simplifies the formulation development process compared to creating stable high-performance emulsions from scratch
Solution Approach 2:
Each phase serves multiple functions: the aqueous phase provides water-soluble UV filtration, refreshing sensation, and structural stability through hydrophilic gelling agents. The oily phase provides fat-soluble UV filtration, photoprotection enhancement, and texture modification through lipophilic gelling agents. This multi-functionality reduces the number of separate ingredients needed
Applied Scientific Principles
This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.
Function Achieved in This Case
The composition achieves high UV protection with a smooth, even application, providing a pleasant sensory experience and stability without phase separation, addressing the issues of greasiness and stickiness.
Implementation Method 1
at least one aqueous phase gelled by at least one non-starchy hydrophilic gelling agent, at least one oily phase gelled by at least one non-cellulosic lipophilic gelling agent
Implementation Method 2
They generally contain liposoluble and hydrosoluble organic UV filters which function by absorbing UV rays according to their own chemical nature
Data Source
AI summary
The present invention relates to a composition in particular a cosmetic composition for make-up and/or care of keratin material, comprising: at least one aqueous phase gelled by at least one non-starch hydrophilic gelling agent, at least one oil phase gelled by at least one non-cellulose lipophilic gelling agent that is not a polar hydrocarbon wax with melting point greater than 75.0°C, and silicone polyamides; said phases forming a homogeneous macroscopic mixture; said composition further comprising at least one UV filter.