Gemini Surfactant Mascula Composition for Volume and Removability

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Solution Overview

Problem

Traditional mascara compositions containing wax lead to clumping, uneven application, dryness, smudging, flaking, and difficulty in removal due to tackiness, while wax-free compositions lack desired properties such as body and volume, and have poor buildability and playtime.

Innovation Solution

A low wax or wax-free mascara composition incorporating a gemini surfactant, co-emulsifier, viscosity increasing agent, and film-forming polymers, which provides improved removability, buildability, and playtime, with a balanced ratio of gemini surfactant to co-emulsifier, and includes a film-forming system and water as primary components.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Volume of moving object

If wax is added to mascara composition to provide body and volume, then the mascara provides good body and volume to the lashes, but the tackiness of the wax leads to clumping, uneven application, dryness, smudging, flaking and difficulty in removal

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvebody and volume of lashesVSAvoidease of application and removal
Core Design Contradiction:
Volume of moving objectVSEase of operation

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the chemical parameters of the formulation by eliminating wax and introducing a specific emulsifying system with gemini surfactant and co-emulsifier in controlled ratios (1:10 to 1:50), along with film-forming polymers and viscosity increasing agents, to achieve the desired body and volume without the harmful tackiness of wax

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent uses a composite emulsifying system combining gemini surfactant with co-emulsifier, and a composite film-forming system with multiple polymers and co-film formers, to create a mascara that provides body and volume through synergistic material combinations rather than relying on single-component wax

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

2Ease of operation

If wax is eliminated from mascara to facilitate application and removal, then the mascara is easier to apply and remove, but the compositions lose desirably properties and tend to be runnym

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveease of application and removalVSAvoidcomposition stability and consistency
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of operationVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

The patent controls the viscosity parameter by adding viscosity increasing agents to achieve a specific viscosity range that prevents the runnym condition, while maintaining the wax-free formulation for ease of application and removal

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent employs a composite system combining emulsifiers, film-forming polymers, and viscosity increasing agents work together to provide stability and prevent runnym consistency without requiring wax

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

3Volume of moving object

If traditional mascara composition is used with wax, then the mascara provides body and volume, but it experiences more flaking or smudging and is difficult to remove

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvebody and volumeVSAvoidresistance to flaking and smudging
Core Design Contradiction:
Volume of moving objectVSReliability

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the chemical composition parameters by replacing wax with a specific ratio of gemini surfactant to co-emulsifier (1:10 to 1:50) and incorporating film-forming polymers, which fundamentally alters the film-forming mechanism to reduce flaking and smudging while maintaining volume

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent uses water-soluble or easily removable emulsifying systems and film-forming polymers that create a mascara composition designed for easy removal, sacrificing the long-lasting tenacity of wax for improved reliability in terms of clean removal and reduced flaking

Inventive Principle:
Principle #27Cheap short-living objects (Disposable)

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The composition achieves better body and volume for lashes, reduced clumping, improved ease of removal, and enhanced water resistance, while maintaining smooth and consistent application, outperforming traditional mascaras in tests for smudging, flaking, and uniform coverage.

Implementation Method 1

an oil-in-water emulsion comprising: (1) an oily phase comprising: (a) from about 0.1% to about 30% of at least one liquid fatty substance; and (b) from about 3.3% to about 20% of an emulsifying system comprising (i) from about 0.3% to about 5% of at least one gemini surfactant; and (ii) from about 3% to about 15% of at least one co-emulsifier

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectEmulsion: Emulsion

Implementation Method 2

a film-forming system comprising: (i) from about 7% to about 25% of at least one film-forming polymer selected from copolymers comprising acrylate monomers, polyurethanes and mixtures thereof, and (ii) from about 0.2% to about 5% of at least one co-film former

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectFilm formation: Deposition (physical)

Implementation Method 3

from about 0.2% to about 1.5% of at least one viscosity increasing agent; Said composition has preferably a viscosity from about 4.7 to about 16.5 Pa.s

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectViscosity modification:

Data Source

PatentEP3046533B1Cosmetic composition useful as a high color intensity and easily removable mascara
Publication Date: 2018.11.14 LOREAL SA
  • EP3046533B1 patent drawingFigure 1~2
  • EP3046533B1 patent drawingFigure 3~4A
  • EP3046533B1 patent drawingFigure 4B~5B

AI summary

Disclosed are cosmetic compositions useful in particular as as low wax mascara compositions,comprising a liquid fatty substance, an emulsifying system including a gemini surfactant and a co-emulsifier, a viscosity increasing agent, a film forming system including a film forming polymer and a co-film former, and water. Also disclosed are methods for making up and/or enhancing the appearance of eyelashes by applying said compositions to the lashes.