Ammonia-Free Hair Color Base Buffer System

Resolve Bottlenecks,
Find Innovative Solutions
Generate Solutions

Solution Overview

Problem

Conventional hair lightening compositions often cause damage to hair and scalp due to high alkalinity, and struggle to achieve efficient color lift and deposition while maintaining cosmetic attributes like ease of application and uniformity.

Innovation Solution

A hair color base comprising a buffer system with ammonium chloride, sodium metasilicate, ammonium hydroxide, and monoethanolamine, used in conjunction with an oxidizing component, to maintain an alkaline pH and facilitate color lift and deposition with minimal damage.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Productivity

If conventional hair lightening compositions use high alkalinity to achieve color lift, then the color lifting effect is improved, but hair and scalp damage increases

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvecolor lift efficiencyVSAvoidhair and scalp damage
Core Design Contradiction:
ProductivityVSObject-affected harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent modifies the pH parameter by using a buffered ammonia-free system that maintains pH between 8.5-10, avoiding the excessively high alkalinity of conventional compositions while still achieving adequate color lift. This parameter optimization resolves the contradiction by finding a middle ground that provides sufficient alkalinity for cuticle swelling and dye penetration without causing severe damage.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent introduces an oxidizing system using hydrogen peroxide (3-12% concentration) as an intermediary agent that enables color lifting through oxidation rather than relying solely on high alkalinity. This intermediary mechanism allows the composition to achieve color lift by oxidizing melanin and facilitating dye precursor conversion, thereby reducing the need for extreme pH levels that cause damage.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

2Productivity

If ammonia or ammonia-generating compounds are used to achieve color lift, then the lightening effect is improved, but scalp irritation and damage increase

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvelightening effectVSAvoidscalp irritation
Core Design Contradiction:
ProductivityVSObject-generated harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent extracts and removes ammonia and ammonia-generating compounds from the composition entirely, replacing them with an alternative buffered system containing aminomethylpropanol and other non-irritating alkalizing agents. This extraction eliminates the source of scalp irritation while maintaining the necessary pH levels for effective color lifting through alternative mechanisms.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #2Taking out (Extraction)

Solution Approach 2:

The patent changes the chemical composition parameters by substituting ammonia-based alkalizing agents with ammonia-free alternatives that provide similar pH elevation without the harmful effects. The buffered system using aminomethylpropanol achieves comparable alkalinity for cuticle swelling and dye penetration while being gentler on the scalp.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

3Reliability

If oxidation dye precursors are used to deposit color, then color deposit is improved, but the composition complexity increases

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvecolor depositVSAvoidcomposition complexity
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSDevice complexity

Solution Approach 1:

The patent employs oxidation dye precursors that serve multiple functions: they act as colorants that deposit on the hair, serve as pH indicators to monitor the coloring process, and participate in the oxidative crosslinking that provides permanent color fixation. This multi-functionality maintains reliable color deposit while avoiding the need for separate indicator systems or additional complex components.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #6Universality (Multi-functionality)

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The solution achieves effective hair color lift and deposition, minimizing damage and ensuring better color visibility and coverage, with a pH range of 8.5 to 10, allowing for a tone height increase of 0.5 to 4, comparable to traditional dyes but with reduced harm.

Implementation Method 1

a hair color base comprising a buffer system, wherein the buffer system comprises ammonium chloride, sodium metasilicate, ammonium hydroxide, and monoethanolamine (MEA)... the pH of the composition for altering the color of hair ranges from about 8.5 to about 10

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectBuffer system:

Implementation Method 2

These oxidation dye precursors are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, when combined with oxidizing agents, give rise to colored complexes by a process of oxidative condensation

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectOxidative condensation: Oxidation

Implementation Method 3

The alkalizing agent causes the hair shaft to swell, thus allowing the small oxidative dye molecules to penetrate the cuticle and cortex before the oxidation condensation process is completed

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectAlkalizing agent swelling:

Data Source

PatentUS10111816B2Composition for altering the color of keratin fibers
Publication Date: 2018.10.30 LOREAL SA
  • US10111816B2 patent drawing
  • US10111816B2 patent drawing
  • US10111816B2 patent drawing

AI summary

Disclosed are hair color bases, hair color compositions, and methods for altering the color of hair. Hair color bases comprise a buffer system including ammonium chloride, sodium metasilicate, ammonium hydroxide, and monoethanolamine (MEA). Hair color compositions comprise a hair base comprising a buffer system including ammonium chloride, sodium metasilicate, ammonium hydroxide, and monoethanolamine (MEA), and an oxidizing component.