Hair Curling Formulation Using Hydroxide and Keratin-Binding Agents

Resolve Bottlenecks,
Find Innovative Solutions
Generate Solutions

Solution Overview

Problem

Existing hair curling methods using lye or alkali-based relaxers cause hair strength reduction, potential breakage, and cannot be used for perming, while traditional perms involve foul-smelling thiol-based agents and may result in broken hair. There is a need for formulations that provide long-lasting moisturization, manageability, and controlled curl levels without the use of foul odors or thiol-based agents.

Innovation Solution

The use of hydroxide-containing agents in combination with active agents that interact with keratin through binding events, such as covalent, ionic, or hydrogen bonds, to curl hair and repair damage, while controlling the level of curl imparted, and maintaining curl retention through specific pH and weight ratios in formulations.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Shape

If lye or alkali-based relaxers are used to curl hair, then hair can be relaxed and straightened, but hair strength is reduced and breakage occurs

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvehair shapeVSAvoidhair strength
Core Design Contradiction:
ShapeVSStrength

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the chemical parameters of the formulation by using hydroxide-containing agents at controlled concentrations (e.g., 0.1% to 5% sodium hydroxide) combined with active agents that bind to keratin. This parameter change allows the formulation to reshape hair while the binding agents protect hair strength by forming covalent, ionic, or hydrogen bonds with keratin, preventing the strength reduction and breakage associated with traditional lye-based relaxers.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

2Shape

If traditional perm formulations are used, then hair can be curled, but foul-smelling thiol-based agents are required

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvehair curlVSAvoidfoul odor
Core Design Contradiction:
ShapeVSObject-generated harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent extracts and removes the thiol-based reducing agents from the formulation, replacing them with hydroxide-containing agents combined with active agents that interact with keratin through binding events. This extraction eliminates the foul smell associated with traditional perms while maintaining the hair curling function through alternative chemical mechanisms.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #2Taking out (Extraction)

3Shape

If lye-based relaxers are used, then hair straightening is achieved, but the formulations cannot be used for perming

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvehair straighteningVSAvoidperm capability
Core Design Contradiction:
ShapeVSAdaptability or versatility

Solution Approach 1:

The patent creates a universal formulation that can perform multiple hair styling functions. By combining hydroxide-containing agents with active agents that bind to keratin, the formulation can be used for both straightening and perming depending on the application method and formulation variations, eliminating the limitation of traditional lye-based relaxers that cannot be used for perming.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #6Universality (Multi-functionality)

4Shape

If traditional curling methods are used, then hair can be curled, but long-lasting moisturization and manageability are not provided

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvehair curlVSAvoidmoisturization duration
Core Design Contradiction:
ShapeVSDuration of action of stationary object

Solution Approach 1:

The patent introduces active agents as intermediaries that bind to keratin through covalent, ionic, or hydrogen bonds. These binding agents serve as mediators that not only facilitate the curling process but also provide long-lasting moisturization and manageability by remaining bound to the hair structure, addressing the deficiency of traditional curling methods that do not provide sustained conditioning benefits.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The solution effectively curls hair, reduces damage, and maintains curl retention with improved moisturization and manageability, even after multiple wash cycles, without the drawbacks of lye-based relaxers or foul odors, and allows for tuning the level of curl imparted.

Implementation Method 1

Active agents that interact with keratin through one or more binding events (e.g., absorption, binding, etc.) and can also react with one or more nucleophiles, such as thiols, in the hair are described herein. 'Binding' as used herein refers to the formation of covalent, ionic, or hydrogen bonds.

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectCovalent bonding: Chemical Bonding

Implementation Method 2

Binding as used herein refers to the formation of covalent, ionic, or hydrogen bonds.

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectIonic bonding: Chemical Bonding

Implementation Method 3

Binding as used herein refers to the formation of covalent, ionic, or hydrogen bonds.

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectHydrogen bonding: Chemical Bonding

Implementation Method 4

Active agents that interact with keratin through one or more binding events (e.g., absorption, binding, etc.) and can also react with one or more nucleophiles, such as thiols, in the hair

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectNucleophilic reaction: Chemical Bonding

Data Source

PatentUS10792233B2Methods and formulations for curling hair
Publication Date: 2020.10.06 OLAPLEX INC
  • US10792233B2 patent drawing
  • US10792233B2 patent drawing
  • US10792233B2 patent drawing

AI summary

Methods, formulations, and kits for curling and/or preventing damage in the curling of hair are disclosed herein. Hair can be curled by treatment with hydroxide-containing agents, in combination with one or more active agents, without the need for thiol-based or peroxide-based agents. The active agent can be applied simultaneously with the hydroxide-containing agent, to impart curl to the hair. They may be applied as a combined formulation or as separate formulations applied simultaneously. Use of the active agent along with a hydroxide-containing agent can be used to control the level of curl imparted to hair, as compared to the natural amount of curl, if any, in the untreated hair.