Emulsifier-Free Hydrodispersion for Stable Lipid Suspension
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Solution Overview
Problem
Existing hydrodispersions in cosmetics tend to phase separate at higher lipid content, feel sticky, and have unsightly 'roll formation' when applied to the skin, lacking attractive sensory properties and stability, especially when containing acrylates as gelling agents.
Innovation Solution
Formulations comprising a liquid lipid phase in an external aqueous phase with a gel framework, using thickeners and waxes with specific melting ranges, and incorporating 2-ethylhexyl salicylate and 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane as UV protection filters, with minimal or no emulsifiers, to create a stable and sensorially appealing product.
Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles
Engineering Contradiction Analysis
1Reliability
If hydrodispersions contain higher lipid content (>4% by weight), then care effects are improved, but phase separation occurs especially at higher temperatures (≥40°C)
Solution Approach 1:
The patent uses a specific thickener (acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) with defined rheological properties to change the physical parameters of the aqueous phase, enabling stable suspension of higher lipid contents (up to 10% or more) without phase separation even at elevated temperatures
Solution Approach 2:
The invention creates a composite system combining specific thickener polymers with lipid phases and optional waxes, where the thickener forms a gel framework that stabilizes the dispersion of lipid droplets, preventing phase separation while maintaining high lipid content for effective care effects
2Stability of the object's composition
If acrylates are used as gelling agents, then gel framework is formed, but abrasion occurs and the hydrogel layer is easily removed (roll formation)
Solution Approach 1:
The patent specifies particular acrylate crosspolymer structures with controlled molecular weight and crosslinking density, which change the mechanical properties of the gel framework to reduce brittleness and prevent roll formation while maintaining stability
Solution Approach 2:
The invention optimizes the local properties of the gel framework by controlling the distribution and concentration of the acrylate thickener, creating a flexible yet stable network that adheres well to skin without forming unsightly rolls when removed
3Ease of operation
If hydrodispersions are made emulsifier-free or with minimal emulsifiers, then stability is reduced, but sensory properties improve and sticky feeling is reduced
Solution Approach 1:
The patent extracts and eliminates emulsifiers from the formulation, relying instead on the thickener-formed gel framework to stabilize the lipid dispersion, thereby improving sensory properties by removing the sticky feeling associated with emulsifiers while maintaining stability through the gel structure
Solution Approach 2:
The invention enables the system to stabilize itself through the thickener gel framework without requiring external emulsifiers, where the gel structure spontaneously forms a stable matrix that suspends lipid droplets and prevents phase separation
Applied Scientific Principles
This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.
Function Achieved in This Case
The resulting hydrodispersions provide a pleasant, non-waxy texture, easy distribution, and a cooling effect, maintaining stability and care effects while offering UV protection, similar to formulations without UV filters.
Implementation Method 1
the stability of the multiphase system is usually ensured by building up a gel framework in the aqueous phase with the aid of a gelling agent or thickener, in which the lipid droplets are stably suspended
Implementation Method 2
lipid droplets are stably suspended
Implementation Method 3
the waxes are solid at room temperature and are therefore able to give the product a high consistency, while they melt on the skin when rubbed and therefore have a cooling effect
Implementation Method 4
they melt on the skin when rubbed and therefore have a cooling effect
Implementation Method 5
UV protection filters 2-ethylhexyl salicylate and 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxy dibenzoylmethane
Data Source
AI summary
The invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological preparations in the form of hydrodispersions which a) consist of a liquid lipid phase in an outer aqueous phase, wherein b) a gel skeleton in which the lipid drops are suspended in a stable manner is constructed in the aqueous phase by means of one or more gel formers and/or one or more thickening agents, c) the oil phase contains one or more waxes, d) the oil phase has a content of 2-ethylhexyl salicylate and 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxy dibenzoylmethane, and e) the preparations contain maximally 2 wt.% of one or more emulsifiers, with respect to the total weight of the preparations, and are preferably entirely free of emulsifiers.