Hydrogen-Bonded Polyphenol Makeup Composition for Alcohol Stability

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Solution Overview

Problem

Cosmetic compositions containing polyphenols, especially in alcoholic media, suffer from instability due to hydrolysis and transesterification reactions, leading to the formation of sensitizing compounds like gallic acid and esters, which are undesirable for skin and lip care products.

Innovation Solution

A composition comprising polyphenols with at least two different phenol groups, nonionic compounds capable of forming hydrogen bonds, C2-C8 alcohols, and specific hydroxylated carboxylic acids, which form a coating agent through hydrogen bonding interactions that stabilize the polyphenols and prevent premature reaction, ensuring stability and pleasant sensory properties.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Reliability

If polyphenols are used in alcoholic media for skin and lip care, then beneficial properties for keratin materials are achieved, but hydrolysis and transesterification reactions occur leading to formation of sensitizing compounds

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvestability of polyphenol compositionVSAvoidsensitizing compounds
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSObject-generated harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent introduces specific compounds as intermediaries that form protective complexes with polyphenols. These intermediaries act as mediators between the polyphenol and the alcoholic medium, preventing direct harmful reactions while maintaining the beneficial properties. The intermediaries form hydrogen bonds and other interactions that stabilize the polyphenol structure and prevent hydrolysis and transesterification reactions.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

Solution Approach 2:

The patent modifies chemical parameters of the composition by introducing specific compounds with particular functional groups. These parameter changes alter the chemical environment around the polyphenol, changing the reaction kinetics and thermodynamics to prevent harmful reactions. The introduction of compounds with specific H-bonding capabilities and molecular structures changes the overall chemical parameters to enhance stability.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

2Ease of operation

If significant contents of short alcohols (C2-C8) are used in the composition, then desired sensory properties and application characteristics are achieved, but hydrolysis and transesterification reactions are promoted

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvesensory propertiesVSAvoidresistance to hydrolysis and transesterification
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of operationVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

The patent introduces compounds as intermediaries that form protective complexes with polyphenols. These intermediaries act as mediators between the polyphenol and the alcoholic medium, preventing direct harmful reactions while maintaining the beneficial properties. The intermediaries form hydrogen bonds and other interactions that stabilize the polyphenol structure and prevent hydrolysis and transesterification reactions.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

Solution Approach 2:

The patent applies preliminary anti-action by introducing compounds that preemptively form protective complexes with polyphenols before harmful reactions can occur. These compounds are designed to bind to the polyphenol structure in advance, creating a protective barrier that prevents subsequent hydrolysis and transesterification reactions, even in the presence of short chain alcohols.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #9Preliminary anti-action

3Reliability

If polyphenols are used to provide beneficial properties for keratin materials, then skin and lip care benefits are achieved, but complete satisfaction in terms of stability over time is not obtained

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvebeneficial properties for keratinVSAvoidstability over time
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSDuration of action of stationary object

Solution Approach 1:

The patent introduces specific compounds as intermediaries that form protective complexes with polyphenols. These intermediaries act as mediators between the polyphenol and the alcoholic medium, preventing direct harmful reactions while maintaining the beneficial properties. The intermediaries form hydrogen bonds and other interactions that stabilize the polyphenol structure and prevent hydrolysis and transesterification reactions.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

Solution Approach 2:

The patent creates composite material systems by combining polyphenols with specific intermediary compounds. This composite approach leverages the beneficial properties of polyphenols for keratin care while the intermediary compounds provide structural stability and reaction prevention. The composite structure allows both functional components to work together synergistically.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The composition provides stable, homogeneous deposition and good wear properties on skin and lips without the formation of sensitizing compounds, maintaining a thin film and pleasant sensory experience over time.

Implementation Method 1

at least one compound Y chosen from those capable of forming at least two hydrogen bonds with said phenol groups of the polyphenol X

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectHydrogen bonding: Chemical Bonding

Data Source

PatentUS20250288510A1Makeup Composition Comprising a Polyphenol, a Polyoxyalkylenated or Polyglycerolated Compound, a Monoalcohol and an Acid, and Method Employing Same
Publication Date: 2025.09.18 LOREAL SA

AI summary

The invention relates to a composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips, more particularly a makeup composition, comprising a) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups; b) at least one compound Y chosen from those capable of forming at least two hydrogen bonds with said phenol groups of the polyphenol X, which is preferably nonionic, polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated and/or (poly)glycerolated; c) at least one C2-C8, preferably C2-C5, monoalcohol, preferably ethanol or isopropanol; d) at least one acid chosen from phytic acid, acetic acid, at least one hydroxylated carboxylic acid chosen from C6 aromatic or C2-C10 non-aromatic monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acids, bearing at least one free OH radical in the alpha or beta position of a carboxylic group that is free or engaged in a heterocycle; ferulic acid; and also mixtures thereof. The invention also relates to a method for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, in particular the lips, in which the abovementioned composition is applied.