Hydroxy Acid Stabilization via Isosorbide and Ether Oils

Resolve Bottlenecks,
Find Innovative Solutions
Generate Solutions

Solution Overview

Problem

Conventional cosmetic and dermatological compositions, such as water-in-oil emulsions and oil-in-water emulsions, face challenges in stabilizing acidic active agents like hydroxy acids, which tend to recrystallize or degrade, leading to reduced efficacy and stability issues, affecting the composition's consistency and user experience.

Innovation Solution

A cosmetic composition combining monoalkyl or dialkyl isosorbide with polyethylene glycol-polypropylene glycol ether and hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyoxyethylenated plant oils, which stabilizes hydroxy acids, maintaining stability at various temperatures and providing good sensory properties without tackiness.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Reliability

If hydroxy acids are incorporated into conventional cosmetic compositions (water-in-oil emulsions, oil-in-water emulsions, or aqueous gels), then the efficacy of the composition is improved, but the stability of the composition deteriorates due to recrystallization and degradation of the acidic active agents

Engineering Contradiction:
ImproveefficacyVSAvoidstability
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

The patent uses a specific combination of polyethylene glycol-polypropylene glycol ether and polyoxyethylenated plant oils as intermediary substances to stabilize hydroxy acids in cosmetic compositions. These intermediaries prevent direct interaction between the acidic active agents and the emulsion base, thereby preventing recrystallization and degradation while maintaining efficacy.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

Solution Approach 2:

The invention creates a composite stabilization system combining multiple ingredients (polyethylene glycol-polypropylene glycol ether with specific n, x, y values and polyoxyethylenated plant oils) to achieve synergistic stabilization效果. This composite approach allows the composition to maintain both the efficacy-providing hydroxy acids and the structural stability of the cosmetic base.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

2Reliability

If higher concentrations of hydroxy acids are used to maximize efficacy, then the therapeutic effect is improved, but the composition becomes unstable and loses viscosity

Engineering Contradiction:
ImproveefficacyVSAvoidviscosity stability
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

The polyethylene glycol-polypropylene glycol ether and polyoxyethylenated plant oils act as protective intermediaries that allow higher concentrations of hydroxy acids to be incorporated without causing viscosity loss. They form a stabilizing matrix that maintains the composition's rheological properties even at elevated active agent levels.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

3Ease of operation

If hydroxy acids are stabilized in emulsion form for cosmetic application, then the user experience is improved, but the composition tends to recrystallize and lose effectiveness

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveuser experienceVSAvoideffectiveness
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of operationVSReliability

Solution Approach 1:

The patent develops a composite emulsion system that integrates hydroxy acids with polyethylene glycol-polypropylene glycol ether and polyoxyethylenated plant oils. This composite structure maintains the smooth, spreadable texture users expect from cosmetic products while preventing recrystallization that would compromise effectiveness.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The composition ensures long-term stability and maximum efficacy of hydroxy acids, maintaining clarity and preventing recrystallization at room temperature and extreme temperatures, while offering a pleasant application experience.

Implementation Method 1

a combination of monoalkyl or dialkyl isosorbide, polyethylene glycol-polypropylene glycol ether and two hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyoxyethylenated plant oils makes it possible to obtain cosmetic or dermatological compositions comprising one or more hydroxy acids that are stable over time at room temperature and also at temperatures of 4° C. or 45° C. for 2 months

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectSolvation: Solvation

Data Source

PatentUS20240238178A1Composition comprising ahas and/or BHAS which is stabilized by a combination of monoalkyl or dialkyl isosorbide, polyethylene glycol-polypropylene glycol ether and two hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyoxyethylenated plant oils
Publication Date: 2024.07.18 LOREAL SA
  • US20240238178A1 patent drawing
  • US20240238178A1 patent drawing
  • US20240238178A1 patent drawing

AI summary

The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising:i. at least one hydroxy acid chosen from α-hydroxy acids, β-hydroxy acids, and mixtures thereof;ii. at least one monoalkyl or dialkyl isosorbide, the alkyl group comprising from 1 to 5 carbon atoms;iii. at least one polyethylene glycol-polypropylene glycol ether of formula (I): CnH2n+1(OCH(CH3)CH2)x(OCH2CH2)yOH (I);iv. at least one first hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, polyoxyethylenated plant oil and at least one second hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, polyoxyethylenated plant oil; said first and second polyoxyethylenated plant oils being different from one another;v. a physiologically acceptable medium comprising at least water;vi. said composition having an acidic pH.The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method comprising the application of said composition to keratin materials and also to the cosmetic use of said composition for caring for the skin.