Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate and Caprylic Esters for Natural Cosmetics
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Solution Overview
Problem
There is a need for a substitute for mineral and silicone oils in cosmetic preparations that maintains sensory properties such as spreadability and absorbability, while being free from animal-derived ingredients and polyacrylates, to meet the growing demand for 'natural' and 'vegan' products.
Innovation Solution
A mixture of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and esters of caprylic acid and/or capric acid is used as a substitute for mineral and silicone oils in cosmetic preparations, specifically in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, with a preferred weight ratio of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate to caprylic/capric acid esters ranging from 1:1 to 1:20, and incorporating additional emulsifiers, waxes, and vegetable oils to enhance skin care and aesthetic benefits.
Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles
Engineering Contradiction Analysis
1Ease of operation
If mineral oils and silicone oils are used in cosmetic preparations, then sensory properties such as spreadability and absorbability are improved, but the products fail to meet the demand for natural and vegan cosmetics
Solution Approach 1:
The patent changes the chemical parameters of the oil phase by using esters of caprylic acid and capric acid (C8-C10 fatty acid esters) instead of mineral or silicone oils. These plant-derived esters have molecular structures and physical properties that closely mimic natural skin oils, providing similar spreadability and absorbability while meeting natural cosmetic requirements.
Solution Approach 2:
The patent creates a composite oil phase system combining multiple plant-derived esters (caprylic acid esters and capric acid esters) with specific molecular weight ranges. This composite approach allows optimization of sensory properties by combining complementary characteristics of different esters, achieving mineral oil-like performance with natural ingredients.
2Stability of the object's composition
If polyacrylates are used as thickeners, then viscosity and stability are improved, but whitening effect and stringy texture occur on the skin
Solution Approach 1:
The patent removes polyacrylates and xanthan gum from the formulation entirely, extracting the problematic thickening agents that cause whitening and stringy texture. Instead, it uses a minimal amount of plant-derived esters and emulsifiers to achieve the desired consistency without the adverse visual effects on skin.
Solution Approach 2:
The patent replaces complex polyacrylate polymers with simpler, plant-based ester mixtures that provide adequate thickening and stabilization. These natural esters are readily biodegradable and do not accumulate on the skin, avoiding the persistent whitening effect of synthetic polymers.
3Stability of the object's composition
If xanthan gum is used as a thickener, then viscosity is improved, but stringy texture and inadequate absorbability occur
Solution Approach 1:
The patent changes the molecular characteristics of the continuous phase by using plant-derived esters with specific carbon chain lengths (C8-C10). These esters have optimal molecular sizes that allow rapid skin penetration and absorption, unlike the large molecular structure of xanthan gum that creates stringy textures and impedes absorbability.
Data Source
AI summary
Use of a mixture of a) hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (INCI: Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate) and b) esters of caprylic acid and/or capric acid as a substitute for mineral oils and silicone oils in cosmetic preparations and to their use in cosmetic preparations.