Ionic Liquid Ion Exchange for Hair Penetration

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Solution Overview

Problem

Existing cosmetic methods for improving the penetration of active agents into hair often result in undesirable greasy or sticky residues, failing to achieve optimal penetration and cosmetic feel simultaneously.

Innovation Solution

A method involving the application of a water-soluble ionic liquid and a water-soluble salt that form a hydrophobic ionic liquid in situ on keratin fibers, enhancing penetration while maintaining a non-greasy, non-sticky feel, using specific organic cations and anions such as imidazolium and hexafluorophosphate.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Reliability

If fatty compounds are used to improve penetration of active ingredients into hair, then penetration is improved, but greasy feel is left on the hair

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvepenetration of active ingredientsVSAvoidgreasy feel
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSObject-generated harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The invention changes the chemical parameters of the penetration-enhancing agent by using ionic liquids with specific cation-anion combinations. These ionic liquids provide effective penetration enhancement through their unique ionic structure and ability to interact with keratin, while their controlled solubility and volatility profiles prevent the greasy feel associated with traditional fatty compounds.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The invention employs composite ionic liquid systems comprising specific cations (such as imidazolium, pyridinium, or ammonium derivatives) paired with specific anions (such as halides, tetrahaloaluminate, or carboxylate). This composite approach allows optimization of both penetration efficacy and cosmetic feel by selecting cation-anion pairs that provide the desired balance of penetration power and non-greasy characteristics.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

2Reliability

If surfactants are used to improve penetration of active ingredients into hair, then penetration is improved, but sticky feel is left on the hair

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvepenetration of active ingredientsVSAvoidsticky feel
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSObject-generated harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The invention changes the physical and chemical parameters of the penetration system by replacing conventional surfactants with ionic liquids. The ionic liquid's unique properties including lower viscosity, controlled hydrophilicity-lipophilicity balance, and enhanced volatility provide effective penetration without the sticky residue characteristic of surfactant-based systems.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The invention substitutes the surfactant-based penetration mechanism with an ionic liquid-based mechanism. Instead of relying on surfactant micelle formation and emulsification, the ionic liquids directly interact with the hair keratin through ionic and dipolar interactions, providing penetration enhancement without the adhesive properties of surfactants.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #28Mechanics substitution (Replace mechanical system)

3Reliability

If conventional penetration methods are used, then some penetration is achieved, but optimal penetration and cosmetic feel cannot be achieved simultaneously

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvepenetration of active ingredientsVSAvoidcosmetic feel
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSEase of operation

Solution Approach 1:

The invention optimizes multiple parameters simultaneously by selecting specific ionic liquid compositions. The cation chain length, branching, and functional groups are adjusted along with anion selection to achieve the optimal balance between penetration depth and cosmetic feel, allowing both objectives to be met concurrently rather than requiring trade-offs.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The invention uses composite ionic liquid formulations that combine specific cations and anions in optimized ratios. This composite approach enables fine-tuning of the penetration-cosmetic feel relationship, where the cation provides structural interaction with keratin for penetration while the anion modulates the overall feel and stability of the treatment.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

This method achieves greater penetration and efficiency in treating keratin materials, improving hair strength, repair, and cosmetic appearance without leaving an oily or sticky residue, offering better detangling, smoothness, and manageability.

Implementation Method 1

the application of a composition comprising a water-soluble salt B-Y-, the anion B- being such that, by ion exchange with the first ionic liquid A+Xin situ on the fibers a second ionic liquid A+

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectIon exchange: Ion Exchange

Data Source

PatentEP3003250B1Method of treating keratin fibres by forming an ionic liquid
Publication Date: 2019.12.18 LOREAL SA
  • EP3003250B1 patent drawing
  • EP3003250B1 patent drawing
  • EP3003250B1 patent drawing

AI summary

The invention concerns a method of treating keratin matter such as keratin fibres, comprising the following steps: (i) applying a composition comprising at least a first water-soluble hydrophilic ionic liquid A+X- comprising an organic cation A+; and (ii) applying a composition comprising a soluble hydrophilic salt Β-Y+ comprising an anion B-, anion B- being such that, by ion exchange with the first ionic liquid A+X-, a second, hydrophobic, ionic liquid A+B- forms. This method of treating keratin matter improves the penetration of cosmetic agents whilst preserving the cosmetic effect.