Non-Glycosylated Iridoid Hair Dyeing Process for Intensity and Stability

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Solution Overview

Problem

Current hair coloring processes using non-glycosylated iridoid compounds are not very intense and require repeated applications over several days or weeks, and they can result in unstable natural shades that change significantly over time.

Innovation Solution

A coloring process involving a composition comprising non-glycosylated iridoid precursors, amines, carbonyl compounds, and a chemical oxidant, applied under specific pH conditions to improve dye intensity and speed, while maintaining the integrity of keratin fibers.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Reliability

If non-glycosylated iridoid compounds are used for hair coloring, then the coloring is well tolerated by the body and safe, but the dye intensity is low and requires repeated applications over several days or weeks

Engineering Contradiction:
ImprovesafetyVSAvoiddyeing speed
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSProductivity

Solution Approach 1:

The patent applies a preliminary action by using an amine treatment before the oxidizing agent to pre-activate the iridoid precursors on the hair. This preliminary step creates reactive intermediates that accelerate the subsequent oxidation and color development, reducing the need for repeated applications while maintaining safety

Inventive Principle:
Principle #10Preliminary action

Solution Approach 2:

The patent changes the chemical parameters by introducing specific amine compounds and controlling pH levels (pH 8-10) to optimize the reactivity of iridoid precursors. This parameter optimization enhances the dyeing speed and intensity without compromising the safety benefits of natural iridoid compounds

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

2Reliability

If non-glycosylated iridoid compounds are used for hair coloring, then the coloring is well tolerated by the body and safe, but the shade intensity is not very intense

Engineering Contradiction:
ImprovesafetyVSAvoidcolor intensity
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSIllumination intensity

Solution Approach 1:

The patent creates a composite coloring system by combining iridoid precursors with amine compounds and oxidizing agents. This composite approach generates multiple color-forming reactions that produce more intense and varied natural shades while maintaining the safety profile of the natural iridoid base

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

Solution Approach 2:

The patent optimizes chemical parameters including pH (8-10), concentration ratios, and reaction time to maximize color intensity. These parameter adjustments ensure充分的 color development from the iridoid-amine-oxidant system while preserving the safety advantages of natural compounds

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

3Reliability

If natural extracts containing iridoids are used, then the coloring is well tolerated by the body, but the natural shades achieved are unstable and change significantly over time

Engineering Contradiction:
ImprovebiocompatibilityVSAvoidcolor stability
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

The patent introduces amine compounds as intermediaries that form stable complexes with oxidized iridoids. These amine-iridoid adducts act as stable colorants that resist fading and degradation, thereby improving color stability while maintaining the biocompatibility of the natural iridoid system

Inventive Principle:
Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

Solution Approach 2:

The patent controls pH parameters (maintaining pH 8-10) and oxidation conditions to ensure stable color formation. These optimized parameters promote the formation of stable colored complexes between amines and oxidized iridoids, reducing color variation over time while preserving safety

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

4Illumination intensity

If repeated applications are used to achieve satisfactory coloring, then the dye intensity increases, but the time required for coloring increases significantly

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvecolor intensityVSAvoidcoloring time
Core Design Contradiction:
Illumination intensityVSLoss of time

Solution Approach 1:

The amine pre-treatment step creates reactive intermediates that significantly accelerate color development, allowing full color intensity to be achieved in a single application rather than requiring multiple repeated applications over days or weeks

Inventive Principle:
Principle #10Preliminary action

Solution Approach 2:

The optimized pH conditions (8-10) and the specific amine-iridoid-oxidant system enable rapid color development kinetics, achieving satisfactory color intensity within a standard single application time frame, thereby eliminating the time loss associated with repeated applications

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The process achieves intense, stable, and long-lasting natural shades without damaging hair, resisting shampoo washes and minimizing textile staining.

Implementation Method 1

a coloring process using a composition comprising at least one coloring precursor derived from non-glycosylated iridoid(s), at least one amine, at least one carbonyl compound and at least one agent chemical oxidant

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectOxidation: Oxidation

Implementation Method 2

react with primary amines in the presence of β-glucosidases, to develop chromatically and form dyes

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectChemical reaction: Chemical Bonding

Data Source

PatentEP2978767B1Dyeing method using a hair-dyeing precursor obtained from iridoids, composition, precursor and device including same
Publication Date: 2018.10.03 LOREAL SA
  • EP2978767B1 patent drawing
  • EP2978767B1 patent drawing
  • EP2978767B1 patent drawing

AI summary

The present invention relates to a dyeing method using a composition including at least one dyeing precursor obtained from one or more non-glycosylated iridoids of formula (I) and at least one chemical oxidising agent, a composition including at least one dyeing precursor, a device including said precursors, the dyeing precursors and a method for preparing said precursors. The dyeing method and composition according to the invention make it possible to obtain a variety of dyes, which do not damage hair and are particularly resistant to shampoo.