Jewelry Stone Fixing Studs for Visible Crown and Secure Mounting

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Solution Overview

Problem

Existing methods for fixing jewelry stones on a support often result in inadequate aesthetics due to hiding the stone's crown and yoke, while also failing to provide a solid and durable fixation.

Innovation Solution

A piece of jewelry design featuring a support with specifically shaped fixing studs and reservations that allow the stones to be securely attached without covering the crown, using a crimping method that embeds the girdle of the stone in notches of the fixing studs, keeping the yoke visible and enhancing the jewelry's appearance.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Reliability

If traditional crimping methods are used to fix stones on a support, then the stones are securely fixed, but the crown and yoke of the stones are hidden, reducing aesthetic appearance

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvefixation securityVSAvoidaesthetic appearance
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSShape

Solution Approach 1:

The fixing stud is divided into distinct functional segments: a lower part that embeds into the support for secure fixation, and an upper part with a notch that crimps the stone's girdle while leaving the crown visible. This segmentation allows each part to perform its function independently without compromising the other.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #1Segmentation

Solution Approach 2:

Instead of embedding the stone's crown into the support as in traditional methods, the invention inverts the approach by having the fixing stud wrap around and crimp the girdle from below, thereby exposing the crown and yoke for optimal aesthetic appearance while maintaining secure fixation.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #13The other way round (Inversion)

2Reliability

If traditional crimping methods are used, then fixation is attempted, but the method is complex and time-consuming

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvefixation durabilityVSAvoidassembly speed
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSProductivity

Solution Approach 1:

The fixing stud is pre-formed with the notch structure before assembly. During assembly, the stone is simply placed on the support and the stud is inserted and crimped in one continuous motion, eliminating the need for multiple steps such as separate positioning, clamping, and securing operations required by traditional methods.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #10Preliminary action

Solution Approach 2:

The invention extracts the essential fixation function from complex multi-step traditional crimping processes, isolating it into a single integrated component (the fixing stud with notch) that performs both positioning and securing functions simultaneously, thereby simplifying the overall assembly process.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #2Taking out (Extraction)

3Reliability

If the stone is embedded in the support to ensure secure fixation, then the stone is firmly attached, but a significant part of the crown is hidden, reducing visibility and aesthetics

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveattachment strengthVSAvoidstone visibility
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSIllumination intensity

Solution Approach 1:

Instead of embedding the stone vertically into the support (one-dimensional approach), the invention uses a fixing stud that wraps around the girdle in a horizontal dimension, creating a three-dimensional fixation structure that secures the stone while leaving the crown exposed for maximum visibility and aesthetic appeal.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #17Another dimension (Dimensionality change)

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The solution ensures a reliable and aesthetically pleasing fixation of jewelry stones, making them more visible and enhancing the overall appearance of the piece, while maintaining durability and ease of assembly.

Implementation Method 1

said fixing studs further comprising an upper part arranged to hold and/or crimp each of said cut stones

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectCrimping: Deformation

Data Source

PatentEP3037013B1Piece of jewellery and method for setting said piece of jewellery
Publication Date: 2018.02.07 CARTIER INTERNATIONAL AG
  • EP3037013B1 patent drawingFigure 1~2
  • EP3037013B1 patent drawingFigure 3~4

AI summary

The present invention relates to a piece of jewelry (10) comprising a support (11) and at least one jewelry stone (12), consisting of a cut stone having a visible front part, called the crown (120), and a back part, called the pavilion (122), at the rear of said crown (120) and delimited from said crown (120) by an intermediate part called the girdle (123), said cut stone (12) being coupled by means of at least four fixing studs (13) to said support (11), said support (11) having at least four recesses (110) which delimit a mounting area (113) of said cut stone (12) and are arranged to receive respectively a lower part (130) of said fixing studs (13), said fixing studs (13) having, a top part (131) arranged to hold said cut stone.