Articulated Jewelry Links with Segmented Holes for Stone Setting

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Solution Overview

Problem

Conventional jewelry pieces with articulated links, such as watch straps, are complex to assemble and do not easily allow for the setting of stones due to their design, which often requires manual labor and restricts the placement of stones.

Innovation Solution

A jewelry piece comprising a mesh of interconnected links with bridges that can be deformed to connect mesh elements in a plane, allowing for simplified construction and automation in manufacturing, flexibility, and the ability to set stones.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Ease of manufacture

If conventional articulated links with pins and holes are used, then the jewelry piece can be assembled, but the design becomes complex and requires a large number of manual operations

Engineering Contradiction:

Improveassembly processVSAvoidlink structure

Core Design Contradiction:

Ease of manufactureVSDevice complexity

Solution Approach 1:

The link is divided into two distinct portions: a first portion with a through-hole for pin insertion, and a second portion without a hole. This segmentation simplifies the overall structure by eliminating the need for holes in all links while still enabling articulated movement through the pin connection between the two portions.

Inventive Principle:

Principle #1Segmentation

Solution Approach 2:

Instead of piercing both links with holes to allow pin passage, the invention inverts the approach by having only the first portion with a hole, while the second portion remains solid. The pin passes through the first portion to connect to the second portion, reversing the conventional wisdom that both links need holes.

Inventive Principle:

Principle #13The other way round (Inversion)

2Ease of manufacture

If links are pierced with holes for pin passage, then the links can be connected, but stones cannot be set in these zones

Engineering Contradiction:

Improveconnection processVSAvoidstone setting capability

Core Design Contradiction:

Ease of manufactureVSAdaptability or versatility

Solution Approach 1:

By dividing the link into two portions with different characteristics (first portion with hole for connection, second portion without hole for decoration), the invention enables both connection functionality and stone setting capability in the second portion, resolving the conflict between these two requirements.

Inventive Principle:

Principle #1Segmentation

Solution Approach 2:

Different portions of the link are assigned different qualities: the first portion has a hole for mechanical connection, while the second portion is solid and suitable for stone setting. This local differentiation allows each portion to fulfill its specific function optimally.

Inventive Principle:

Principle #3Local quality

3Device complexity

If conventional jewelry pieces are manufactured manually, then complex designs can be assembled, but productivity is low and automation is difficult

Engineering Contradiction:

Improvedesign flexibilityVSAvoidmanufacturing speed

Core Design Contradiction:

Device complexityVSProductivity

Solution Approach 1:

The simplified link structure with its segmented design (two portions with distinct functions) reduces the number of components and operations required, making the assembly process more suitable for automated manufacturing while maintaining design flexibility.

Inventive Principle:

Principle #1Segmentation

Solution Approach 2:

The invention changes the structural parameters of the link (eliminating holes from the second portion, creating the two-portion configuration) to enable both automated manufacturing and design flexibility, moving away from the conventional all-hole design that requires complex manual assembly.

Inventive Principle:

Principle #35Parameter changes

4Ease of manufacture

If the jewelry piece uses traditional articulated links, then it can be assembled, but the piece is heavy and less flexible

Engineering Contradiction:

Improveassembly capabilityVSAvoidjewelry piece weight

Core Design Contradiction:

Ease of manufactureVSWeight of moving object

Solution Approach 1:

The two-portion link structure allows for optimized material distribution, where the solid second portion can be made lighter while still providing structural integrity for stone setting, and the first portion with the hole reduces material usage, resulting in an overall lighter jewelry piece.

Inventive Principle:

Principle #1Segmentation

Data Source

PatentEP2896312B1Piece of jewellery with articulated links, in particular a watch strap, and method for manufacturing same

Publication Date: 2016.08.24 CARTIER INTERNATIONAL AG

Figure 1~3c
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Figure 6~8

AI summary

A piece of jewellery (1) comprising a plurality of mesh elements (4) arranged to form a mesh (2) extending in a plane (7) of the piece and a plurality of links (3); each link (3) being configured to be connected to a portion of at least two adjacent mesh elements (4) so as to connect said at least two mesh elements (4) in an articulated manner; each link (3) comprising a first and a second portion (31, 32) such that, when the link (3) is connected, said at least two mesh elements (4) extend in the plane (7), between the first portion (31) and the second portion (32) of the link (3); the mesh elements (4) being connected to each other in the plane (7) by bridges (5) configured to be eliminated by a predetermined deformation of the mesh (2).The jewelry piece of the invention is of simple construction and is particularly well suited for a watch bracelet including set stones.