Keratin Crosslinking via Bi-functional Acids and Bases
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Solution Overview
Problem
Current hair treatment agents fail to effectively strengthen hair, especially for greasy hair, and often lead to dehydration and instability of disulfide bonds, resulting in brittle and damaged hair.
Innovation Solution
A method involving two distinct formulations applied in different pH levels, a caustic formula with a pH of 7 to 12 and an acidic formula with a pH of 1.5 to 7, using bi-functional organic acids and Bronsted-bases to crosslink keratin fibers, which can be mixed with commercially available hair color or bleaching formulations.
Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles
Engineering Contradiction Analysis
1Ease of operation
If hair treatment agents with nourishing effect are applied, then hair conditioning and combing facilitation are improved, but hair greasiness increases and style durability decreases
Solution Approach 1:
The invention changes the chemical parameters of hair treatment by using bi-functional organic acids (pH 2-7) and bi-functional Bronsted-bases that can crosslink with keratin. This chemical crosslinking provides conditioning and combing facilitation without the greasiness associated with traditional nourishing agents, as the crosslinks are covalent bonds rather than surface deposits.
Solution Approach 2:
The invention creates a composite effect by combining two different chemical approaches: organic acids for initial keratin interaction and Bronsted-bases for crosslinking. This composite chemical system provides both strengthening and conditioning benefits without the adverse greasiness effect of conventional single-agent treatments.
2Reliability
If oxidizing agents are introduced to reestablish disulfide bonds, then permanent wave stability is improved, but hair damage and brittleness increase
Solution Approach 1:
The invention converts the harmful effect of strong oxidizing agents by using mild organic acids instead. These acids can still facilitate disulfide bond reformation and crosslinking but do so without the excessive oxidation that causes hair damage and brittleness, thus turning a potentially harmful process into a beneficial one.
Solution Approach 2:
The invention changes the pH and chemical nature of the treatment from strongly oxidizing (high pH, aggressive chemicals) to mildly acidic or neutral (pH 2-7, organic acids). This parameter change allows disulfide bond stabilization while minimizing hair damage, as the milder conditions preserve hair integrity.
3Ease of operation
If amino acid mixtures are applied as hair conditioning components, then hair conditioning is improved, but production complexity and cost increase
Solution Approach 1:
The invention extracts and uses only the essential functional components (bi-functional organic acids and Bronsted-bases) needed for keratin crosslinking and conditioning, eliminating the need for complex mixtures of multiple amino acids and vitamins. This simplifies production while maintaining conditioning effectiveness.
Solution Approach 2:
The bi-functional organic acids and Bronsted-bases serve multiple functions: they condition hair, strengthen keratin through crosslinking, and facilitate permanent wave setting. This multi-functionality replaces the need for separate amino acid mixtures and other conditioning agents, simplifying the overall formulation and production process.
4Ease of operation
If keratin-hydrolyzate and citric acid are applied in neutralizing shampoo, then hair care effect is provided, but hair dehydration increases
Solution Approach 1:
The invention uses organic acids with pH 2-7, which is a more balanced pH range compared to the strongly acidic citric acid in traditional neutralizing shampoos. This moderate pH provides hair care effects through crosslinking without causing the severe dehydration associated with strong acids, thus preserving hair moisture while maintaining conditioning benefits.
Applied Scientific Principles
This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.
Function Achieved in This Case
The method provides long-lasting hair strengthening, improves hair manageability, reduces breakage, and enhances shine and moisture resistance without affecting hair coloring or bleaching performance.
Implementation Method 1
providing a composition capable of crosslinking the amino-acid groups of keratin fibers, comprising also the mixing of such crosslinking composition with commercially available hair color or hair bleaching formulations
Implementation Method 2
comprising an at least bi-functional Bronsted-base of the general formula X—R—Y, wherein X and Y are proton-acceptor groups
Implementation Method 3
the durability of the hair style is dependent on the disulfide bonds, which are unstable and can be easily reduced to sulfhydryl groups under reducing condition
Data Source
AI summary
A method for strengthening and repairing keratin fibres including providing a caustic as well as an acidic crosslinking composition, wherein the caustic crosslinking composition comprises an at least bi-functional Bronsted-acid and the acidic crosslinking composition comprises an at least bi-functional organic acid, and a cosmetically acceptable carrier; applying the caustic as well as the acidic crosslinking composition to keratin fibres; and optionally mixing the caustic crosslinking composition into a commercially available hair coloring or hair bleaching composition.