Keratin Fiber Crosslinking via Sequential pH Shift

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Solution Overview

Problem

Current hair treatment agents fail to effectively strengthen hair, especially for greasy hair, and often lead to dehydration and reduced durability of hair styles due to instability in disulfide bonds, and existing methods for crosslinking hair proteins are either costly or difficult to produce consistently.

Innovation Solution

A method involving two distinct compositions: a caustic composition with a bi-functional Brönsted base and an acidic composition with a bi-functional organic acid, applied sequentially to crosslink keratin fibers, which can be used alone or mixed with commercial hair coloring or bleaching formulations, to provide durable hair strengthening without altering the pH of these formulations.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Reliability

If hair treatment agents with nourishing effect are applied to greasy hair, then hair conditioning is improved, but hair becomes more greasy and durability of hair style decreases

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvedurability of hair styleVSAvoidgreasiness of hair
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSObject-generated harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The treatment is divided into two separate compositions applied in sequence: first a caustic composition (pH 7-12) to open hair cuticles and enable crosslinking, then an acidic composition (pH 1.5-7) to crosslink keratin fibers and close cuticles. This segmentation allows each composition to perform its specific function without the drawbacks of combining them, achieving durable styling without excessive greasiness.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #1Segmentation

Solution Approach 2:

The invention changes the pH parameter of the treatment compositions to achieve different effects. The caustic composition (high pH) facilitates penetration and crosslinking initiation, while the acidic composition (low pH) completes crosslinking and provides conditioning. This parameter change strategy allows effective treatment of greasy hair without compromising style durability.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

2Stability of the object's composition

If disulfide bonds in hair are reestablished through oxidizing agents, then stability of permanent waves is improved, but hair structure may be damaged

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvestability of disulfide bondsVSAvoidhair structure damage
Core Design Contradiction:
Stability of the object's compositionVSObject-affected harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The invention uses bi-functional organic acids and bi-functional Brönsted bases as intermediary substances to facilitate crosslinking between keratin fibers. These intermediaries form new crosslinks without requiring harsh oxidizing agents, thereby stabilizing the hair structure and permanent waves while avoiding damage to the hair protein matrix.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

Solution Approach 2:

The invention employs readily available, inexpensive bi-functional organic acids (such as oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid) and bi-functional Brönsted bases that can be easily sourced. These simple compounds effectively crosslink keratin fibers without the need for complex, expensive oxidizing systems, providing a cost-effective and less damaging alternative.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #27Cheap short-living objects (Disposable)

3Object-affected harmful factors

If amino acid mixtures are used as hair conditioning components, then hair damage is reduced, but production cost and complexity increase

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvehair damageVSAvoidproduction cost and complexity
Core Design Contradiction:
Object-affected harmful factorsVSEase of manufacture

Solution Approach 1:

The invention replaces expensive, complex amino acid mixtures with inexpensive, readily available bi-functional organic acids and bases. These simple compounds achieve effective crosslinking and hair strengthening without requiring fractionated hydrolysis and purification processes, dramatically reducing production cost and complexity while maintaining hair damage protection.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #27Cheap short-living objects (Disposable)

Solution Approach 2:

The invention changes the chemical nature of the active ingredients from complex amino acid mixtures to simple bi-functional organic acids and bases. This parameter change maintains the ability to protect and strengthen hair through crosslinking while eliminating the manufacturing complexity associated with amino acid production.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

4Reliability

If keratin-hydrolysate and citric acid are applied in neutralizing shampoo, then hair conditioning is provided, but strong dehydration of hair occurs

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvehair conditioning effectVSAvoidhair moisture
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSLoss of substance

Solution Approach 1:

The invention segments the conditioning and crosslinking functions into separate compositions applied after washing, rather than combining them in the shampoo. This allows the crosslinking process to occur without the dehydrating effects of shampoo ingredients, maintaining hair moisture while providing conditioning and strengthening benefits.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #1Segmentation

Solution Approach 2:

The invention performs crosslinking as a preliminary action after hair washing and before final styling. By applying the caustic and acidic compositions to clean, damp hair and allowing crosslinking to occur, the hair is strengthened and conditioned before exposure to dehydrating environmental factors, preserving moisture while providing conditioning effects.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #10Preliminary action

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The method achieves long-lasting hair strengthening, improves water and humidity resistance, and enhances manageability, while maintaining the performance of hair coloring or bleaching processes, with the crosslinking compositions being easy to source and environmentally friendly.

Implementation Method 1

providing a caustic hair strengthening composition comprising a bi-functional Brönsted base capable of reacting with the carboxylic acid groups of the hair and crosslinking these functional groups of the hair

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectChemical Bonding: Chemical Bonding

Implementation Method 2

applying to the hair an acidic composition comprising a crosslinking composition comprising a bi-functional organic acid capable of reacting with the amine groups of the hair and crosslinking these functional groups in the keratin protein structure

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectChemical Bonding: Chemical Bonding

Implementation Method 3

the treatment with the caustic hair strengthening composition and the acidic hair strengthening composition alters the conformation of keratin polypeptides

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectConformational Change:

Data Source

PatentUS11951198B2Method and kit for processing hair
Publication Date: 2024.04.09 LIW PATENT COMPANY LIMITED
  • US11951198B2 patent drawing

AI summary

A method for strengthening and repairing keratin fibers including providing a caustic as well as an acidic crosslinking composition, wherein the caustic crosslinking composition comprises an at least bi-functional Brönsted-base and the acidic crosslinking composition comprises an at least bi-functional organic acid, and a cosmetically acceptable carrier;applying the caustic as well as the acidic crosslinking composition to keratin fibers; and optionally mixing the caustic crosslinking composition into a commercially available hair coloring or hair bleaching composition.