Keratin Fiber Reshaping Using Alkaline Composition

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Solution Overview

Problem

Current permanent reshaping processes for keratin fibers, such as hair, are time-consuming, require high skill levels, cause damage, and can lead to hair loss due to over-processing. Additionally, these processes involve strong odors from reducing and oxidizing agents.

Innovation Solution

A process involving mechanical tension on keratin fibers, application of a non-reducing, non-oxidizing alkaline composition with a pH of 7 to 12, covering with a moisture barrier, heating, and then releasing tension, which uses a combination of ammonia and organic alkalizing agents to reshape hair without causing significant damage.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Reliability

If reducing and oxidizing agents are used for permanent reshaping, then curling efficiency is improved, but hair damage increases and processing time extends

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvecurling efficiencyVSAvoidhair damage
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSObject-affected harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The invention extracts and removes the harmful reducing and oxidizing agents from the perming process, replacing them with an alkaline composition containing ammonia and organic alkalizing agents. This extraction eliminates the hair damage caused by bond cleavage and reforming while maintaining the curling function through alternative alkaline mechanisms.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #2Taking out (Extraction)

Solution Approach 2:

The invention changes the chemical parameters of the perming composition by using alkaline agents (pH 7-12) instead of reducing/oxidizing agents. The specific parameter change involves using ammonia combined with organic alkalizing agents in defined weight ratios (0.1 to 20), which alters the chemical mechanism from bond breaking/reforming to alkaline-induced protein chain movement and disulphide bond rearrangement.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

2Ease of operation

If reducing agents are used for permanent reshaping, then disulphide bonds are cleaved allowing protein chain movement, but strong acrid odour is generated

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveprotein chain movementVSAvoidacrid odour
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of operationVSObject-generated harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The invention converts the harmful acrid odour of reducing agents into a beneficial situation by using ammonia combined with organic alkalizing agents. While ammonia itself has a smell, the combination with organic alkalizing agents in specific ratios reduces the overall acridity while maintaining the necessary alkaline function for protein chain movement and curl formation.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #22Blessing in disguise (Convert harm into benefit)

3Reliability

If test curling is performed to determine optimum processing time, then over-processing is avoided, but additional time and skill requirements increase

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveover-processing preventionVSAvoidprocessing time
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSLoss of time

Solution Approach 1:

The invention changes the processing parameters by using an alkaline composition with defined ammonia to organic alkalizing agent ratios (0.1 to 20) at controlled pH (7-12) and temperature (50°C to 230°C). These standardized parameter changes create predictable processing conditions that reduce the need for extensive test curling and stylist judgment, thereby reducing the time and skill barrier while maintaining reliability.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

4Reliability

If heating is applied for digital perming, then curling efficiency is improved, but risk of over-processing and hair loss increases

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvecurling efficiencyVSAvoidhair loss
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSObject-affected harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The invention changes the thermal and chemical parameters by combining moderate heating (50°C to 230°C) with a controlled alkaline composition. The specific parameter control involves maintaining pH between 7-12 and using defined weight ratios of ammonia to organic alkalizing agents, which creates a balanced processing condition that achieves efficient curling while minimizing the risk of overheating and hair damage.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The process achieves superior, long-lasting curling results with reduced ammonia smell, minimal risk of over-processing, and lower hair damage compared to traditional methods.

Implementation Method 1

applying to keratin fibers an non-reducing, non-oxidizing alkaline composition with a pH in the range of 7 to 12 comprising two or more alkalizing agents

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectAlkalization:

Implementation Method 2

The reducing step employs reducing agents, such as thioglycolic acid, in order to cleave disulphide bonds within the hair and to allow protein chain movement

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectDisulphide bond cleavage:

Implementation Method 3

heating the keratin fibers to a temperature in the range of 50°C to 230°C

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectHeating: Heating

Implementation Method 4

covering keratin fibers with a moisture barrier

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectMoisture retention:

Data Source

PatentEP3890696B1Process for reshaping keratin fibers
Publication Date: 2025.04.16 KAO GERMANY GMBH
  • EP3890696B1 patent drawing
  • EP3890696B1 patent drawing
  • EP3890696B1 patent drawing

AI summary

The present invention relates to a process for reshaping keratin fibers comprising steps of applying a composition comprising ammonia and one or more organic alkalizing agents as well as covering, putting the hair under tension using a curler, covering the curler with a moisture barrier, and heating the keratin fibers. As a result, a long-lasting curl having cosmetic properties is achieved and the ammonia smell is reduced compared to composition having no organic alkalizing agent.