Ambient Temperature Keratin Fiber Waving Process

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Solution Overview

Problem

Existing permanent waving processes for keratin fibers, such as human hair, often result in fiber damage and unsatisfactory curl quality due to inappropriate processing times and the use of heat, leading to brittle and unnatural-looking hair.

Innovation Solution

A process involving the application of an aqueous reducing composition followed by rinsing, an alkaline composition, and finally an oxidizing composition, all at ambient temperature without heat, with the option to rinse off the oxidizing composition, to achieve soft, smooth, and naturally feeling hair with defined curls.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Shape

If heat is applied during processing of the reducing agent on the fibers, then curl formation is improved, but fiber damage increases

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvecurl formationVSAvoidfiber damage
Core Design Contradiction:
ShapeVSObject-affected harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the temperature parameter from elevated (heat perming) to ambient temperature processing. The reducing composition and oxidizing composition are formulated to work effectively at ambient temperature, eliminating thermal damage while maintaining curl formation capability through optimized chemical composition and processing time

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent introduces an intermediate alkaline composition applied between the reducing and oxidizing steps. This intermediate treatment with alkaline agents (pH 9-11) modifies the fiber structure to enhance curl formation without requiring heat, serving as a chemical mediator that replaces the thermal activation function

Inventive Principle:
Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

2Productivity

If the processing period of the reducing composition is extended, then waving efficiency is improved, but fiber damage increases

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvewaving efficiencyVSAvoidfiber damage
Core Design Contradiction:
ProductivityVSObject-affected harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent modifies the chemical composition parameters of the reducing agent to achieve faster action at ambient temperature. By selecting specific reducing agents and optimizing their concentration and pH, the required processing time is reduced while maintaining effective waving, thereby preventing over-processing damage

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent implements a multi-step process with intermediate alkaline treatment that provides feedback control on the waving progress. The alkaline composition application between reduction and oxidation allows monitoring and adjustment of the waving state, preventing excessive reducing agent exposure while ensuring adequate curl formation

Inventive Principle:
Principle #23Feedback

3Loss of time

If the reducing composition is not rinsed off before applying the oxidizing composition, then processing time is reduced, but hair quality deteriorates

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveprocessing timeVSAvoidhair quality
Core Design Contradiction:
Loss of timeVSStrength

Solution Approach 1:

The patent introduces an intermediate alkaline composition that serves multiple functions: it rinses away excess reducing agent, prepares the fiber for oxidation, and maintains curl structure. This intermediate step replaces simple water rinsing while actually reducing total processing time by enabling faster subsequent oxidation

Inventive Principle:
Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

Solution Approach 2:

The patent maintains continuous useful action by having the intermediate alkaline composition serve multiple purposes in sequence: it acts as a rinsing agent, a fiber preparer for oxidation, and a curl structure maintainer. This multi-functional approach eliminates idle time between steps while preserving hair quality

Inventive Principle:
Principle #20Continuity of useful action

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The process delivers strong, natural-looking, and homogeneously curled hair with reduced damage, as demonstrated by improved waving efficiency, softness, and smoothness compared to existing methods.

Implementation Method 1

an aqueous composition comprising one or more reducing agent at a total concentration in the range of 0.5 to 20% by weight, calculated to the total of the aqueous composition, is applied and left on the fibers for a period of 1 to 60 min

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectReduction: Reduction

Implementation Method 2

an aqueous composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide or bromate salt, is applied onto fibers and left on the fibers for a period of 1 to 30 min

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectOxidation: Oxidation

Data Source

PatentEP3710115B1Process for permanent waving keratin fibers
Publication Date: 2023.06.14 KAO GERMANY GMBH
  • EP3710115B1 patent drawing
  • EP3710115B1 patent drawing
  • EP3710115B1 patent drawing

AI summary

Present invention relates to a process for permanent waving keratin fibers, especially human hair, for achieving durable waves wherein fibers are treated with a reducing composition, a non-reducing and non-oxidizing alkaline composition and finally an oxidizing composition wherein after processing the reducing composition the fibers are rinsed off.